Basic design for first selfbow

[buckhuck]

Newbie to the bowyer scene here and was wondering what would be a good basic design for a starter selfbow?  

I have found a few designs on google but thought I'd poll the trusty Tradganger's to see what you recommended.

P.S.  I plan on using rock maple.

[Pat B]

A lot depends on your draw weight and draw length but if you built a bow that is 68" long, 1 3/4" wide at the fades and out 10" or so then taper to 1/2" tips you should be OK.
Are you using a board or a stave?    Pat

[buckhuck]

Pat, thanks for the info. I have 4 staves drying right now.

How critical is the density of growth rings with rock maple?

 

[Pat B]

I have not worked with hard maple but I would think that is a good one. The crown looks a bit high. How wide and thick is that stave?     Pat

[onemississipp]

buckhuck,
   Start with a board as many have while your staves are drying. This will help you understand what is happening and what you will need to do when it comes to tillering a stave.

It will also help you get organized as far a tools and techniques go.

There is some info about my first red oak board bow here.

 http://onemississipp.googlepages.com/board

[John Scifres]

Rock maple can vary greatly in its density.  It's hard to tell where your particular stave lies without a bit of experience unless you want to go to the trouble of testing it a la Tim Baker's test in the Trad Bowyer's Bible I.  I recommend you get that book and read it.

Knowing the density is important to design especially on whitewoods.  Rock maple is pretty good in compression so it should be fine with the dimensions Pat B listed.  If it feels really shocky when you get to shooting it, you can probably narrow the tips quite a bit.

Give us your draw length, desired weight and more info on the staves.

[buckhuck]

Hey guys, thanks for the help!

onemississipp I really like your site there, thanks for the link.  

Pat, the stave is approx 2.5" wide by 2.25" tall and 85.5" long.  My other staves are around the same dimensions (some are still considerably bigger).  I shaved a little off the sides and belly since I posted that first pic, below is what it looks like now.  Those small pits on the end are from me.

John, my draw length is 28" and I am not really picky about the draw weight right now.  Anything over 45lbs would suite me just fine.

 

After I cleaned it up a bit I noticed this knot smack dab in the middle.  This might be a stupid question, but can a knot like that be worked into the handle and still maintain structural integrity?  I have plenty of access to more wood so if you guys think I should scrap this one I won't even bother with it.


 

[Pat B]

If that is right where the handle will be, you are lucky. If it were me, it would be in the center of the working portion of a limb.   Unless there is something about the knot that we can't see, you should be fine with that in the handle. Pat

[buckhuck]

The knot is exactly where the handle should be and would pass directly from left to right angling slightly upward through the handle.  It would look really neat, I have nothing to lose so why not!!

[John Scifres]

The knot will be fine because your bow won't bend there.

Here are some good instructions for a board bow:    Ferret\\'s Board Bow instructions  The dimensions given will work for your stave too.

[buckhuck]

Originally posted by John Scifres:
Rock maple can vary greatly in its density.  It's hard to tell where your particular stave lies without a bit of experience unless you want to go to the trouble of testing it a la Tim Baker's test in the Trad Bowyer's Bible I.  I recommend you get that book and read it.

Knowing the density is important to design especially on whitewoods.  Rock maple is pretty good in compression so it should be fine with the dimensions Pat B listed.  If it feels really shocky when you get to shooting it, you can probably narrow the tips quite a bit.

Give us your draw length, desired weight and more info on the staves.

I came across the book on Google books.  You don't get the entire book, but its free so I am not complaining. The test you were referring to is on page 100.


Here is the Trad Bowyer's Bible  Vol I    http://books.google.com/books?id=Du7S2qjEoRgC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_summary_r&cad=0#PPA101,M1  

Vol II     http://books.google.com/books?id=D9yQiKTtprAC&printsec=frontcover&dq=traditional+bowyer%27s+bible&sig=ACfU3U3QbRX5Q5SxdcoPGk24mPhaCDmW2A#PPP1,M1  

Vol III     http://books.google.com/books?id=55V9l_8hrQMC&printsec=frontcover&dq=traditional+bowyer%27s+bible&sig=ACfU3U28kpwhrM3FHTLZQ0mt88rR9iKQww