Author Topic: Tillering my 1st osage bow  (Read 1441 times)

Offline Bowkill II

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Tillering my 1st osage bow
« on: August 23, 2008, 12:09:00 AM »
I tried and can't post photos, so I'll try to explain what I have.  I just made my 1st osage bow.  It is 55" ntn, 1 3/4" wide along most the length, and bend in the handle D style.  I tried to make a plains type bow.  Here is my problem.  At full draw on the tillering tree, it looks great.  a nice even curve.  However, when it is strung, and not pulled, the top limb is a little stiffer than the bottom limb.  It isn't a perfect D shape.  But like I said when it's drawn it is almost a perfect C shape.  What should I do?

Online Pat B

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Re: Tillering my 1st osage bow
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2008, 12:23:00 AM »
With wooden bows full draw is where you see proper tiller. There is so much irregularity in wood bows a braced or unbraced pic doesn't give you all the info you are looking for. Full draw does. If it looks good at full draw it is GOOD!   Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
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Offline Bowkill II

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Re: Tillering my 1st osage bow
« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2008, 12:51:00 AM »
Thanks, that's kind of what I was hoping to hear!

Offline DCM

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Re: Tillering my 1st osage bow
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2008, 09:11:00 AM »
How it looks when YOU draw it is what counts.  Actually it would be more accurate to say how it shoots, and how it sets is the most important.  With a bendy handle bow especially, how you shoot it, where you apply pressure with you bow hand makes a big difference.  There's always a "sweet spot," and it generally doesn't lie to you about the other parameters, the shape and set.

If you can email me pics, I'd be happy to post them for you.  You want to set you camera to take the smallest pictures, 640x480 or similar.  Whatever setting lets you take the MOST pics is the same.  I can reduce them if necessary, but it same a lot of trouble to start out w/ smaller ones.  I can help you with emailing them as well, if you need it.

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