Long String Draw Weight vs Braced

[ChristopherO]

On my current project I have long strung the bow to just under a normal brace higth (approx 6") to see how even the bend is.  Satisfied with that I checked the weight of the bow while pulling the limbs the same distance.  It is not too much less, 4 or 5 lbs., than what I want in a finished bow at full draw.  It appears to me that this needs quite a bit of belly removal, or trapping the boo on the back.  What should I expect in weight if it were to be braced with a short string as it is?  I have a tendency to get too agressive with a heavy bow and turn it into a kid's bow.  So if you can give me an better idea of what I should expect I would really appreciate it.
Christopher

[Pat B]

I would think the braced weight would be similar to the long string weight...the tiller won't.  Is your tiller even at 6"? If so, go ahead and brace it low, 3" to 4" and check tiller first and if it is OK then check your weight.     Pat

[Dano]

There isn't a lot of difference in long string compared to short, as long as the long string isn't too long, the leverage changes as the string gets longer and that can foll ya. I try to keep my long tiller string as short as I can.

[George Tsoukalas]

I use this method. I tiller out to 10 in. with the long string and check weight with a scale. I never draw more than 5# pastfinal target weight.  At 10 inches of string movement with the long string the stave will be 10# over target weight. More on my site. Jawge
 http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/

[Ken Allen]

George, Would that method work with a deflex/reflex bow also?

[George Tsoukalas]

Ken, yes, I go further than the 10 inches for the reflex. If the reflex is 2 inches I'll long string to 12 inches. It gets me in the ball park so that the stave is not too heavy to be strung. Jawge

[Ken Allen]

Thanks Jawge, I will give it a try on my next bow.

[John Scifres]

6" is my normal brace height.  I can't imagine you'll see any difference between 6" and 7" brace.  When I think long string, I am talking a loose string.  That makes a difference but I only use it to accomplish 16" or so of bend at 10# less than my desired draw weight (usually judged v. measured).  At that point, I brace to 3" and tiller from there with it strung.

[ChristopherO]

Thanks for the replies.  I've learned that my long string was way too long.  Once shortened up it has made the job much better.

[George Tsoukalas]

I've never found long string length to be an issue at a string movement of 10 inches.  Jawge

[Pat B]

I use a long string only to get a bow to a low brace height(3" to 4"). After that only the brace height changes as the tillering process continues.

[Roy Steele]

You all need to attach your bow scale to your tillering board.That way you can see your weight and draw leanth at the same time.Never draw 5#s over your intended weight.Tiller your limbs down to your draw leanth never going over your weight.This way theres no guessing and no stressing.You end up with the right weight and draw leanth EVERY TIME.
   This way you can tiller past where you think your brace height.Brace your bow with out going over your intended weight.
   Boy dose that sound weird but it works/

[Roy Steele]

You all need to attach your bow scale to your tillering board.That way you can see your weight and draw leanth at the same time.Never draw 5#s over your intended weight.Tiller your limbs down to your draw leanth never going over your weight.This way theres no guessing and no stressing.You end up with the right weight and draw leanth EVERY TIME.
   This way you can tiller past where you think your brace height.Brace your bow with out going over your intended weight.
   Boy dose that sound weird but it works/

[razorback]

When you talk about long string, how long are you talking. i am thinking, and have used a string that is basically the same length as the ntn distance, therefore no bending to string it. With this method would you say that pulling the string to the 10" notch on the tiller stick was right or are you talking about the bend in the limbs being 10". Hope this isn't too confusing of a question, but just gave myself a headache.

     

[George Tsoukalas]

I actually time it so I don't even hit my intended draw weight until 24-25 inches. Then at 26 inches I'm 3-5 # over. Gives me sanding room though my bows f=don't require much sanding because after I string the stave I use my Swedish push knife as a scraper.  I use a Hanson Hand Held scale. The weight registers and stays so I can read it after I let down. Of course, I use a tillering tree. Jawge

[Pat B]

When using a long string I go until the tips have moved 6" to 8" and if everything is OK I brace the bow at 4" to see how everything lines up.