Self bow length

[Turpentine]

I've built a couple of laminated longbows but have recently become interested in building a wood bow to hunt with.  Something along the lines of a reflex/deflex bamboo backed hickory.  I'm new to wood bows so bear with me.  Would I need to "chase a ring" with hickory?  I draw 29 1/4 inches and would like the bow between 55 and 65 pounds.  How long would this bow need to be?  Would 64 inches or less be OK?
 Bow length is very important to me.  I had a bad treestand accident and have to do 99% of my shooting from a sitting position.
Is there a different design that might work better at a shorter overall length?
Thanks
Turpentine

[elkslayer]

No chasing a ring at all and anything between 60 and 64 would be fine. and with a boo backed bow you can even z splice the belly stock and then put a 12 or 13 inch hand stock over the splice and then one piece of boo. Thats how I do it and they turn out great. Good luck pm me if you get stuck or have any problems. Just make sure you taper your boo from handle to tip. If your tips have thick boo it will not shoot good.

[Eric Krewson]

I never make a wood bow for someone with a 29" draw less then 66" NTN. It has been my experience that longer draws are tough on shorter bamboo backed bows with bamboo failure being pretty common. An R/D bow may not have this problem but my reflexed bow do.

[DCM]

64" would be ok, but you'll need to build it carefully.  I'd encourage you to use either boo on osage or osage selfbow.  With the latter you could go as low as 60" but that is pushing the envelope to the edge and you need premium material and best craftsmanship.  For a stiff handled bow, and only a small portion actually stiff, I see 60" as the minimum lenght.

In general terms you can use a design where arrow pass is at center to minimize lower limb lenght.  Also design extra width and tiller for more generous bend nearer the handle, to preserve string angle.  Perhaps put a little bit of reflex on the outer limbs for same reason.

Short bows will challenge a bowyer's skills, and the materials, but surprisingly short bows can be successful, particularly if they bend in the handle.  You can also adjust your form for shorter draw to some degree.

[George Tsoukalas]

For a hickory bow, with an 8 inch non bending handle, and  drawing 29 inches I'd go no less than 68 inches ntn. For a bend in the handle bow you can go much less in length. That's for a selfbow or a bow backed with silk, linen, rawhide or bulral. Never did a bambbo backed bow. More on my site. Jawge
 http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/

[Turpentine]

Thanks to you all for the advice.  It will most likely be after deer season before I get started.  I'm just trying to get an idea of what I need.  Any suggestions on where I might get the stave or backing?  What glue for the backing?  Would I be better off using a board or a stave?  Elkslayer, do you have a build a long or plans for your type bow?
Thanks
Turpentine

[ChristopherO]

Go to a local hardwood mill to possibly pick up a stave.  They will usually work with you.  Or cut down a hickory tree, split it, dry it and go from there.  There are suppliers on this board that can sell you one, too.  If you are going to back it with bamboo then a board is perfectly fine.  A stave is good for a self bow that you don't intend to back.  A GOOD board can be unbacked, too, but it needs to be primo for that application with heavier weights of draw.
Bamboo is found from those suppliers on this forum or any number of outlets found on a google search.  Some folks use urac185 for glue.  Others use Smooth On.  I use Titebond 3 and am pleased with the results.
As for a design:  They can look out of the woods primative or as slick as a classy FG bow.  The end result and how you want to go about it is up to you.

[George Tsoukalas]

Don't was too much time looking for a "bulral" backing. I meant to say burlap. New url for my site. Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Springbuck]

Hickory takes some set in your climate.

 On a backed bow, as long as the grain runs straight over all you'll be ok.

  If you do make a short bow at your draw, I'd recommend a wide-ish flat bow, possibly with a short semi-recurve to offset any string follow.  A short, thick handle is good, but if you can figure out a design that allows a BITH bow, good, too.  Even with the crown on a boo back this works.  64" is possible, but pushing it, even at that.

  For woods, look for elasticity over "strength", since it is backed.  BL is as "strong" as osage, but won't bend as far without staking set.

[shamus]

peel the bark off hickory and go. No need to chase a ring. With boards, it's all about angle of violation.

+ 1 to Jawge. Try Jawge's site for boardbows:  http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

my site has some stuff on selfbow length:  http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2008/06/selfbow-length.html

[John Scifres]

This BBO is 65" for a 29" draw.  It is a pretty mild R/D.    Lil Hunter\\'s Bow  

I wouldn't hesitate to make one 64" but it would have a very round tiller and pretty mild R/D.