Author Topic: harvesting vinemaple  (Read 821 times)

Offline hunterboy

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harvesting vinemaple
« on: November 02, 2008, 11:10:00 AM »
hey folks i have  access to some choice vine maple and am considering harvesting some, how should the staves be stored for seasoning? bark on or bark off? seal the ends to prevent checking or not?

Offline Crimson mist

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Re: harvesting vinemaple
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2008, 04:21:00 PM »
Look for reaction wood for example if the wood was bent downward then mark the top before you cut it because having to support the downward compression will make the top piece the fast piece in fact if you split it with that in mind it will probably it will spring into a reflex anyway scape off the bark, and split into halves, you can seal the ends, I don't.  Store in a room that's dry but not too warm. As soon as the wood hits 20% moisture content then you can move to a warmer area or even a dryer box

Offline huntinoly

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Re: harvesting vinemaple
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2008, 10:48:00 AM »
Make sure you get the bark off, Its a pain if you let it dry and try to get it off.

Offline portugeejn

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Re: harvesting vinemaple
« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2008, 01:45:00 PM »
John Strunk told some of us in a class to make sure and mark the top before you cut it down and use the top half for your stave, the other side doesn't work as well for a bow.

RonP

Offline Flashman

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Re: harvesting vinemaple
« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2008, 10:17:00 PM »
Having harvested a fair amount, let me make one or two suggestions.  John Strunk told me the same on labeling the back of the stave which the side facing upwards because Vine Maple always seems to be bent over.  Second, the piece of VM you harvest will probably not look much like the one you end up with.  It bends and twists as it dries and for me it doesn't matter whether a paint the ends and/or remove the bark.  That said, I suggest that immediately after it is cut, you reduce it to a roughed out bow also removing the bark on the back (and the green cambium layer which is difficult to remove once it is dried).  Then put the wood in a frame with a slight reverse camber (deflex) of about 2 to 3 inches and clamp it down on both planes to minimize movement of the wood as it dries.  Leave it in place at least seven days outside out of the rain in a relatively dry climate or better yet two weeks.  The finished product show be fairly usuable but may require a small amount of bending.  What I suggest is not original to me but a combinatin of Comstock, Strunk, Torges, Tim Baker and others and gives me the best result with this very difficult but very character building wood. Because of the above, I only harvest one piece of wood at a time.  

I have one in the braces right now and two that I bent by heat ready to be released.

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