Your thoughts on this stave....finish pics added

[BMN]

I've had this stave laying in the garage for a few years and think it's about time to do something with it. One end of the stave has very thin growth rings until you get down towards the center. It looks like this:

   

On the other end the growth rings are thicker throughout the stave. It looks like this:

   

The rings I have marked should be the same corresponding rings on each end of the stave. Right now the stave is 62-1/2 inches long and is pretty straight. Using the rings I have marked I could probably make the back 1-1/4 inches wide. I may need to shorten it further to get rid of the checking. What would you do with this stave? Is there enough belly wood if I use one of the rings I have marked as the back? Could I use a bend through the handle design and still get 50lbs @ 28in? Is a stiff handle design out of the question? I've only made one other osage bow so this one could be a challenge for me. Should I pick another stave and save this one for later? What would you experienced bowyers do with this stave? Your thoughts are much appreciated.

Bill

[John Scifres]

The third or sixth ring down look chaseabl;e to me.  Getting towards the center like that get's pretty dangerous.  It may seem that you can get that width but I never do.  In fact, I'd venture that you won't have a bow left if you go down that deep.  Take your time and chase the higher rings.  You are going to lose an inch or more to those end checks so I'd say a bendy handle is your best bet if you want to draw 28".  I am in love with the design I used for my ambush bow a couple years ago.

  http://residents.bowhunting.net/sticknstring/ambushbow.html

[BMN]

Thanks John. I figured getting that close to the center was asking for trouble. I think I'll give that sixth ring a go. Your ambush bow is a real beauty! The tiller is just outstanding! Thanks for the advice.

Bill

[Pat B]

What are the dimensions across the back and the depth of the stave?
  I'd remove the sapwood first and see whats under it. You may(if wide enough) be able to get 2 sister staves from the one stave. Also once you get the sapwood off you might be able to position a bow where the checking won't affect a bow.    Pat

[BMN]

Pat, I'd say its about 5 inches wide and 4 to 5 inches deep on average. I'll remove the sap wood and try to chase one of the upper rings and see what I've got. Thanks for your help.

[George Tsoukalas]

Those checks are probably just on the ends. They are rarely problematic. Overlays will strengthen the tips. There is no need to go all the way down to where you are. The first couple of rings under the sapwood are fine. There's info on my site. Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[George Tsoukalas]

I see now what John is saying ad I woud go with what he said. You'll have to use a curved scraper or tool for that job as the rings are dippy. Jawge

[DCM]

If it's 5" or more wide on the good end, consider parting the stave along it's lenght, splitting it lenghwise and rejoining  the "sister billets" from the best portion, retaining the fat rings.  W splices are not that difficult and this solution would allow nearly any sort design you'd want, offering up to potentially 80" in lenght or even to some degree a bendy handled bow.

You ain't got enough wood for what you first suggested, in my experience.  But you could probably take that belly split off to try it and still do what I suggested above with what's left.

[Springbuck]

You really want to know what I'd do?

  I'd decrown it backwards, with the innermost ring you marked running 1/2" wide down the center, and make a narrowish flatbow!

  Or I'd smooth one side flat and make a quartersawn grain stave out of it, just to learn the skill, just because I've been thinking about it lately...

  And I'd fail, probably, and destroy the stave and I'd have lots of orange shavings to clean up...

[The Gopher]

it looks to me like the 6th ring is the way to go, at least for me and my skill set, thats what i would plan on.

[BMN]

I have it down to the third ring right now. I plan on reducing it to near bow dimensions and then chasing that sixth ring. It looks like I'll loose a couple inches to the end checks. I should be able to get a 60-inch bow.

[Pat B]

I wouldn't worry about the checks in the end. Once you get the bow shaped, fill the checks with super glue and go on with your tillering. Generally speaking, checks(drying cracks that run with the grain) will not effect the outcome of your bow unless they run off of the edge(side) of the bow. You can put a wrap at each end for insurance and decoration.   Pat

[BMN]

Great idea Pat! Thanks for the help.

[Clay Hayes]

If you can get the third ring exposed and not cut, I wouldn't worry about going after the 6th one.  The thickness of the ring isn't going to make much difference as long as it's not cut.  The only reason, in my oppinion, that folks look for a thick back ring is that they are easier to follow.

When you get to the tillering, keep in mind that your ring fading pattern on the belly is going to be way different between limbs.  Your gonna have a few more rings exposed on the limb with the thiner rings.

Good luck!

ch

[BMN]

Thanks for the info Clay. I have the third ring exposed but I think I may have violated the ring in one spot around a small knot. So, I'm going to make my way down to that 6th ring. Besides, I need the practice.

[Clay Hayes]

Keep us updated.

[BMN]

I'll try to post some more pics when I have time. I have the stave cut to bow dimensions and I'm working on chasing that 6th ring. I'll then need to apply some heat and do a little bending to get the tips and handle to line up. With the holiday to-do list growing rapidly, progress will be slooooooooooooow.

[Pat B]

Sloooooow is the best way to go...except for us that are waiting.    Pat

[BMN]

Here is where I'm at right now. I have it down to the 6th ring so the back is ready to go. As you can see from the pic, it has a little snakey character. I'm going to get it to floor tiller and then put a little heat to it and line up the tips and handle. One limb has some natural reflex so I'm going to then add some reflex to the other limb to match. Hopefully I'll find some time after the holiday to work on it some more.

 

Merry Christmas everyone!

Bill

[BMN]

I thought I should show how this finally turned out. I'm pretty happy with the results considering this is only my second osage bow and the first bend in the handle design. She turned out 58 inches ntn and somewhere around 45 lbs @ 28 inches.

 

I had to build up the handle with leather to make it more comfortable.
 

My first try at pin nocks.
 
 

 

A knot in the lower limb.
 

I really love the way she shoots and so far I'm shooting her very well. Hopefully that will continue. I think I might grow to love this short bend in the handle design. I have another stave off this same log that will probably get the same treatment.