Author Topic: applying smooth-on and side stops  (Read 849 times)

Offline Biff

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applying smooth-on and side stops
« on: November 05, 2008, 08:00:00 PM »
I just took my first "Bingham" longbow out of the form.(air hose pressure system)I am pleased with the results but: I didn't realize how long it would take to apply the smooth-on with a spatula. I used a "Bondo" type cut to size. Is there any tricks I don't know about?

Secondly, I had a small amount of slipage from side to side, not enough to hurt, but I've seen some pictures of bow forms with large washers screwed in on each side of the form near the ends, to keep everything lined up. Any pros or cons on that idea? Thanks for any honest replys, Biff  P.S. Yes, I'm hooked!
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Offline TNstickn

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Re: applying smooth-on and side stops
« Reply #1 on: November 05, 2008, 08:07:00 PM »
Way to go Biff! I use the washer method, the ones I use are described in a post by Apex Predator.

I've tried the spatula and small roller. I think the spatula has the least amount of risk for an air bubble. Smooth-on has a pretty open work time so just take your time, you should have plenty before it starts to set.>>>>>------->Greg
Pick a spot.>>>>-------> Shoot straight.

Online kennym

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Re: applying smooth-on and side stops
« Reply #2 on: November 05, 2008, 09:36:00 PM »
What Greg said. I use  washers made from a plastic barrel,hole drilled off center so when you turn em,you can adjust height. I put a pair at each end of the fades and a pair a little way from the end of the limb.

We need to see that bow when you get er done!!  :thumbsup:
Stay sharp, Kenny.

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Offline Holm-Made

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Re: applying smooth-on and side stops
« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2008, 10:29:00 PM »
Need the washers for sure, no doubt about it.  

I use a 1 1/2" putty knife and work on the lams close to the edge of the work bench.  This way I can use the side of the putty knife and it goes quick.  I slop it on pretty thick and clean up the excess with a quick swip or two after.  The glue will run off the sides of the lam but easy to clean up after that lam is done.  

I roll out 80" of freezer paper and use that for a work surface.  Chad

Offline Apex Predator

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Re: applying smooth-on and side stops
« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2008, 09:33:00 AM »
I use the washers.  A pair at eache fadeout to support the riser, and a pair at each end of the bow.  I dab the smooth-on with a popsicle stick and spread it with a little wall paper seam roller.  It goes really quick and I can get the epoxy spread very evenly.  The only air bubbles I've had I attribute to my clamping.  I've got it down now though.  Here is my roller.

 

 

My form with washers.

 
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Offline Biff

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Re: applying smooth-on and side stops
« Reply #5 on: November 06, 2008, 12:37:00 PM »
Talk about getting the right answers! Thanks a bunch feller's ! I'm definetly going the washer route, the roller looks worth a try. I imagine the excess epoxy can be scraped off the paper if it's clean, put back on the lams. Biff
"In case you don't know me, I'm just a friend you haven't had a chance to meet yet!"

Offline TNstickn

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Re: applying smooth-on and side stops
« Reply #6 on: November 06, 2008, 06:58:00 PM »
Apex definitely has it down!
Pick a spot.>>>>-------> Shoot straight.

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