spray finishes

[Dick in Seattle]

So, I'm starting to get into this bowmaking thing.  My first two efforts I finished using the same wipe on poly finish I used on wood arrows.  Looks good, seems to last well.   Ah, you hear a "but" coming...
Yes, you do.   I'm not a perfectionist... more of a "get a good job done quickly", very impatient kind of a guy.   I'm actually pretty OK with my poly finish as far as a result goes, but it does take me four to six days.  Only about 10 to 20 minutes a day to wipe on a and to rub down the previous coat, but still...   I'd like to identify a good aerosol spray can finish (don't have a spray gun) that can be sprayed on and dries fast.   Any suggestions, anything that other folks use but I just don't know about, or is this hoping for too much?

[shaft slinger]

Deft, goes on good and dries in 30min. been using it for 15 years with no problem

[TimZeigler]

You can get Tru-Oil in aerosol form.  Check out Brownells website.  I haven't used that version but have had decent results with the rub on stuff.

[Ray_G]

Guys,

I told Marty - Apex Predator - about an aerosol finish that Brownells also carries called "Custom Oil".  It is an oil / urethane blend.  I don't know if he tried it as I think he is using spray on epoxy.

See the link:   http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5529&title=Gun%20Sav%27R%20CUSTOM%20OIL%20GUNSTOCK%20FINISH

I used it in my gunsmithing shop for stocks.  I liked it and it held up to weather well.  I did fill pores as I layered and then cut it back flush with wet/dry.  A couple of top coats and it was done.  A can would easily finish two or three stocks.  In the right temp and humidity, I could get three coats on in a day.

Ray

[TimZeigler]

Ray, thanks for the link, I think I'm gonna give that stuff a try.  How does it compare to BC Tru Oil? I thought about using Massey finish to fill the grain and then do the outer finish with oil finish.

[Ray_G]

Tim,

I found it to dry quicker than Tru-Oil.  We used that in gunsmithing school.  That is when someone found out about the Custom Oil.  I visited with the company reps at a mid-90's SHOT Show and found out about how they made it, including the urethane.  I think it makes it harder than Tru-Oil but no empirical data there.

I usually sprayed three coats to fill walnut pores (and of course it layers on the surface) and then wet sanded the surface with some Custom Oil on the paper.  This slurry can be let to dry into any unfilled pores.  Light sand with 320 and two final spray coats.  You can successfully fill the pores with other materials and then spray some finish coats of Custom Oil with no problem as long as it is dry.  Some guys even wiped in epoxy (usually Brownells AcraGlas)and sanded smooth before Custom Oil.

Let us know how it works on bows.  I don't have a shop at the moment.  I hope one is coming soon as I have a storage unit full of tools and equipment.

Ray

[Ray_G]

By the way, I should mention that Custom Oil stuck great on real ebony tips and grip caps.  I usually used some acetone on the ebony before finishing.  I would think it would work on most "exotic" woods if so prepped.

Ray

[Apex Predator]

I appreciate the tip Ray, but went to spraying fullerplast before I could try it.  I used to use Minwax Laquer, which was easy, fast, and looked great.  It is not a professiional finish like I was looking for though.  The custom oil seems like it may be better.

[John Scifres]

I use Minwax spray polyurethane almost all the time.  It is easy, fairly cheap and quick.   It looks good too.

[Dick in Seattle]

thanks, guys, that's a lot of info and several things to try.

[Tommy Leach]

Dick, I'm like John in using the Minwax spray poly. I use the high gloss for the fist five or six coats (it seems a little harder) and then dull the finish with a couple of coats of satin. On recent bows I have sprayed the bow with two or three coats, then used very fine steel wool or polishing paper to take off rough areas. I then polish the bow between each coat. This works very well when spraying over snake skins. Good Luck - Tommy

[Dick in Seattle]

thanks for all the info, guys.    I ended up getting a spray can of spar varnish... then didn't use it!   Sunday I was ready to start putting finish on, but I was still nervous about the spraying.  I had just lit my pipe and had it going nicely and the can said not to use around heat sources, so i kind of used that as an excuse... wasn't going to let a perfectly good smoke go out... and went ahead and used my old standby, wipe on MinWax poly.  Only critical decision there was whether to use a Hanes or Fruit of the Loom tee shirt... though I hear some folks have had good results from Jockey.....  Maybe next time the spray...