help with steaming limbs, please

[fujimo]

any suggestions on how i should go about steaming bow limbs in order to reflex them.
what would be the best apparatus to build so that i could use this "tool" regularily.
i would like to steam the entire limb, as i want a continious bend, and not just set back in the handle area.
thanks!

[Pat B]

Fujimo, Steaming isn't the only method for manipulating wood. Dry heat is also an option. You can get a heat gun(paint stripper)for about $20 and with it you can heat and manipulate the entire limb with only the heat gun, a form(caul) and maybe a bit of oil.
   What woods are you working with?
Getting an even bend, instead of only at the handle, is more about having your bow pre tillered or at least shaped so the limbs bend evenly. Pat

[fujimo]

hiya Pat,
i am working with some hickory and red oak boards. i have pre tillered them, and have a form, but my concern with the heat gun on these boards is that i live in sw alberta, and it is very dry here , and the boards are very dry to start with, the previous hickory bow i built had a m.c. of 6 %. it works really well, with min(3/4") string follow, but i was really worried about dessicating the boards even more with the heat gun- is this a realistic concern??
i had planned to use the heat gun on a hickory and an ash stave i bought from "down south".
you mentioned oil withe heat gun process, please explain further.
thanks
wayne

[Pat B]

Wayne, Hickory loves dry climates. 6% is where it preforms best. I live in the S E and dry usually isn't a problem. If you use a heat gun allow a few days for the wood to rehydrate a bit even if you have to put it in the bathroom for a few days.
   I like to use oil(I use olive oil but any will work)when manipulating wood with a heat gun. I believe it holds the heat longer, allows the heat to penetrate better and protects from scorching.
When heat treating the belly(tempering)I don't use oil because I want the wood to scorch and get brown(not black). After that I let it sit for a few days to rehydrate before stressing.
   Your climate may be too dry for a successful red oak bow but I don't know for sure because I'm not in an ultra dry climate.    Pat

[ChristopherO]

Even steam heat will take moisture out of wood.  If you are thinking about heating the whole limb and then fixing it into a form then try running steam through a tube, ie: downspout, pvc or such.  Hook up an elbow to the tube at a 90 degree angle down and a shroud to collect the steam from the pan.  Smather Crisco on the wood to be heated, stick it into the tube and let the steaming begin.  It will take quite a while depending on the thickness of the wood.  You will have to be fast in fastening the heated wood to the form as it will cool fast.  An extra set of hands helps a bunch.  Let sit overnight or so before removing from form.
Hope this helps.

[Bert Frelink]

Wayne,
Do you want to try and bend some "green" Choke Cherry, I am going to cut some prime 3" stuff very shortly.
I also have bent some Osage with just dry heat no problems, as you can tell, it shoots like a dream.
             
I am having trouble copying the pic's from photobucket.
I will try again in a few minutes.
Bert.

[Bert Frelink]

Here we go, must have been too early in the morning, I've only had one cup of coffe sofar.

[Pat B]

A good rule of thumb when bending wood with heat is...dry heat for dry wood, wet heat for wet wood. If you add moisture(wet heat, steam) to already dry wood there is a very good chance that the bow will develop checks(drying cracks) as it dries back out. One way to help eliminate this is by sealing the back and ends with shellac. Shellac is not effected by steam.
   Bert, that is a beautiful recurve. Will you give the dimensions and bending techniques?    Pat

[Bert Frelink]

Sure Pat, It is a Bamboo Backed Osage Recurve 60" long N2N and it pulls 61#@28" it's 1 3/8" at the fades and tapers to 1/2" tips, tip over lays are Bison Horn, I finished it with Tru-Oil.
I cut it to rough dimensions on the bandsaw and then bend it on a form with dry heat, scored the back with a toothing plane blade and then bend the Bamboo on the same form and scored it as well, then glued the two together with Smooth-On.
No particular reason for the Smooth-On other than I have it on hand for my glass bows.
It was fun trying to tiller it without making the tips too thin(I tried to keep it static)turned out very nice, but then I might be a bit biased.
   

[Pat B]

You have a right to be bias with that bow! She's a beauty. Now that I look closer I can see the boo nodes on the back. I thought it was a self bow.   Looks longer than 60" but I guess it an optical illusion. I'd bet she is fast!      Pat

[Bert Frelink]

Yes it is, I will shoot it through the chrono just to verify.
The first time I shot it I tought it had exploded.
I have build a few bows(   ) but this is by far the COOLEST.

[fujimo]

hey guys,
thanks you guys  for all the help and advice, it is really appreciated.!!
bert that bow looks really cool.
i am tuly envious
regards wayne