Question for self bow builders

[ranger 3]

Question for you self bow makers. I bought this nice stave and have drawn the center line and the 2 in.line. Question is what do I do with the knot on the side it is about in the middle? The one on the end I can cut off.
     
   

[Dave2old]

Check the Bowyer's Bible and various posts regarding Snake or "character" bows. There are techniques for working around knots and incorporating them in the bow's design. On the other hand, that's a really nasty one! Good luck.

[wingnut]

work the side away from the knot to follow the grain.  That will give you a better look at what you have.  It looks to me like the bow can be on the other side and not involve the knot

also how long is the stave/?

Mike

[ranger 3]

The stave is 72"

[Diamondback59]

ranger  you v  got plenty of wood  do like wingnut says and you ll be fine merry x mas  brock

[Pat B]

How long will your bow be?..what draw length and weight? For osage you don't need 2" wide stave.    1 1/2" or less will do. You should be able to completely eliminate the knot when you lay out your bow.     Pat

[DWLnAK]

Treat the grain like it is water in a stream. The knot is like a bend in the stream. Use dividers to keep your width consistant. Here's a tip to taper snakey limbs evenly. Draw a perfectly straight bow on paper. Mark your template every inch along the limbs. Use dividers and transfer the measurements on your stave. Be sure to leave your tips a little wider. I agree with the above. You won't need a two inch wide osage bow unless your making canoe paddle. If the knot is in the center of the stave then it will disapear when you narrow your handle. I also agree that you have plenty of wood if you move your bow over a little.

[ranger 3]

Thanks for all your input.

Howard

[Eric Krewson]

You don't need a stave more than 1 1/4" wide to make a fine osage bow. This will eliminate some of your knot on the side problems.

[wsm coyote]

Be sure your centerline runs with the longitudal grain. Whatever it does, so should your centerline.
 Forgive me if I'm wrong, but your pictures look as though you have marked lines down the stave with a straight edge.  For a super straight piece of wood you can do that, but on most osage the grain wanders back and forth the length of the stave.
  Pat and Eric are right. Depending on how long you want the bow to be, and your draw length, you should never need more than 1-1/2" wide for osage.  Saw Filer

[Pat B]

Is that you Shannon?   Pat

[John Scifres]

Do like instructed above.  Flow the profile around the knot to eliminate it.  It looks like your opposite side doesn't have the corresponding snake in the grain.  That's common on small knots like that.  I still like to match the profile though just to keep the width close and make it prettier.  Watch that pin knot.  Here's about how I would do it.  Remember making a selfbow is often more art than science.

 

[wsm coyote]

Yep, it's me Pat.    I can't figure out how to change my handle over here.    

[Clay Hayes]

That's nothing to worry about.  Like the above, you have plenty of wood to work with, especialy if it's where your handle will go.

[Roy Steele]

If it won't make your bow to short cut it off,save yourself the work.I start out with one three quarter's or a little less.Depending on your stave. Buy the time you work it down you will have inch an half or a little less. depending what you want or what your stave has in it.You have let the wood tell you.The more bows you build the more the wood will tell you.Boy dose that sound weird.But you people that built a few bows know what I'm talking about.You don't have to be a rocket sciencest to build a self bow.Elimate the knot if you can,but follow the grain.Unless your backing your bow.