Requesting Tillering Advice For Reworking A Hickory Recurve

[ChristopherO]

The Osage recurve is quietly bidding it's time as the sinew drys.  That project gave me renewed vigor to once again tackle my first recurve wood bow I started around Christmas 2007.  All was going well until a moment of impatience with the rasp caused one limb to twist.  Multiple heatings and tinkering only served to exhaust me but did not allow the limb tip from throwing the string out of line.  In the end I was whipped.  Into the closet it went only to be looked at from time to time with hope for a new start.  
The other day I decided it might work to shorten the tip down from 4" recurves to a 2 1/2"s.  Tonight I did just that and I am glad to say it has made the difference.  
Now that you've had to wade through the background of this project this is my question:
How far out from the fades do you like to see the limbs begin to  bend.  To put this into perspective this bow is around 57" ntn.
Upon looking at it on the tillering wall the outer limbs are bending very well, the limbs past the fades aren't really moving until at least 4" out.  I might be asking too much for a 28" draw but if it is possible I would like to.  
What do you suggest?
Thank you,
Christopher

[Buckeyehunter]

I just finished a 57" longbow which required the limbs to bend all the way to the fades.  I have a 28.5" draw.

[Pat B]

The shorter the bow the more limb you want working. With recurves you loose a few inches from each limb with the non bending curves so I like to get right to or even into the handle.

[ChristopherO]

So in a way it is like tillering a paramid bow?  The limb thickness will be nearly the same the length of the limb up to the fade, or so it seems.  That is similar to what I experienced with the osage recurve.  
Thanks for the feedback.