Stave problem *(up dated)

[ranger 3]

Here it is braced about 3" and at 20" what you think needs to be done?
 
 

[Pat B]

Your tips look a bit stiff. The one on the left, a few inches past the knot could bend a bit more. You can see how thick it is just past the knot. Don't mess with the fade area on the right limb but the last 1/3 of the limb could bend a bit more before you get to the tip.
   Other than that it looks good. How about an unbraced pic.    Pat

[ranger 3]

Thanks Pat,the right limb also has a bit of twist to it. I have it at 50# at 23" and it has a lot of hand shock. I am going for 50@28 but I just short drew it and wow. Can I narrow the tips and them them down before I finish tillering? Right now the tips are about 3/4"
 

[Pat B]

The hand shock probably comes from the tip mass. As long as your string is tracking well(or pretty close) you can reduce the tip width. I always leave my tips thick so I can reduce the width to reduce the physical weight...thus reducing the hand shock. Later you can reduce the thickness to get the tip weight down even more.
   From the looks of the unbraced pic you have some set but it looks relatively even between both limbs but most of it is near the handle. Don't take any more wood from that area until you are sure the rest of the limb is taking on more of the work.

[ranger 3]

Hi Pat, what you think? 50@26 I took the tips down but still a lot of shock. Should I take them down some more?
 

[Pat B]

The left limb looks good. The right limb is bending a bit much before the knot and not enough on either side of it. I would concentrate on those areas(either side of the knot) and get them bending more and up to the knot.
  Will you post a pic of the front view of the tips?   With the thickness you show there you should be able to remove more wood from the tips.   Pat

[ranger 3]

Here is the tips they are 1/2", I will work on the area you said.
 
 

[Pat B]

First off you shouldn't make the string groove through the back ring of your bow; just the sides and belly unless you use an overlay on the tips. The limb can split right there. You should probably put new nocks just below those. You can dress up the tips just before you finish the bow.
  You can go narrow with your tips. I make mine about 3/8" or a bit less. You don't have to do the tips yet until you get the tillering done.

[ranger 3]

I'll have to fix the nocks. I think the top limb need a little work.
 

[Pat B]

I'd take a few long strokes down the center of the top limb with a scraper and check it again.

[Eric Krewson]

You can cut down the back of the bow and put overlays on for your nocks. This way you can keep the same bow length.

I cut them angled from the back to the belly so the overlay can be lower and not be a big bump on the back of the stave.

The overlay in the picture is cut a slight angle but I have done them at a much steeper angle. You will have to file lower than the groove you have already cut.

 

Here is a finished nock that has been cut and an angle.

 

[ranger 3]

Can I use a piece of Osage and what would you glue it on with Super glue, Tite bound 3 ?

Thanks

[Pat B]

Any hardwood will work for overlays. I have used super glue, TBII and TBIII as well as 2ton epoxy to glue down overlays of wood, antler and bone.

[ranger 3]

Eric, may I see a picture of the tips from the belly side please?

[Eric Krewson]

My camera is in Nashville with my wife but I will take a picture when she gets back on Monday.

[Eric Krewson]

I found this one, not completely finished but shaped.

 

[ranger 3]

Thanks I will post some pictures of the bow when I get her finished.

[ranger 3]

Here is more pics.
 
 
 
 

[Pat B]

Now you're cooking!  Nice!  
   If you bring the length of the overlay down the limb a tad the transition between the overlay and limb will be less abrupt and allow for easier stringing. Also, most of the wood above the string nock is excess baggage. You can reduce that wood some more without effecting the weight or tiller of the bow.

[Lost Arra]