Hickory Stave Question

[Wyostikbo]

Guy's I have a hickory stave that is 2 months green. I heard that I should try and get the bark off now or use dynamite later. I got the bark off trying to preserve the back as best I could. There are a few knicks about 1/8" deep where I got carried away. Of course I'm shooting to just remove the bark use that as the back of the bow since I don't believe I could ever chase a ring. How pristine does the back on a hickory bow need to be? Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks, Brent

[talkingcabbage]

The nicer the better.  Any place a splinter could raise is a potential bow breaker.  In the same breath I'll admit I'm not an expert by any means, especially when it comes to self-bows, so I'm watching with you to see what some of the others have to say.

Joe

[Pat B]

How thick are the growth rings? Hickory is tough stuff and can take some violations. Smooth the back out, especially where you nicked the back and you should be OK. You could add a silk or linen backing for safety but it's probably not necessary.
   If the wood is cut during the growing season the bark will slip. If cut during the dormant season the bark will hold tight.      Pat

[John Scifres]

1/8" is pretty deep.  I think I'd chase the next ring.  Definitely smooth it out real well.

[Wyostikbo]

Guy's,
This is my first try at hickory, I've just used osage so far. That being said the back of the stave appears to have kind of a layer of soft wood right under the bark. It is not a growth ring really. I am pretty handy at chasing a ring on osage, so I took a little off the edge with the draw knife and I don't think I can do that the whole length with any luck. I'm sure the violation would be much worse by then. I'm hoping that "layer" is a characteristic of hickory and I haven't really hurt it. We will see how it looks when I get the bow roughed out. I may have to sinew the back.
Thanks for your imput. Don't hold back if you have other suggestions.
Thanks, Brent

[Pat B]

A rawhide, silk or linen backing will help you sleep better. No need to use sinew unless you just want to.    Pat

[shamus]

"back of the stave appears to have kind of a layer of soft wood right under the bark. It is not a growth ring really"  

That sounds like inner bark. I encountered the same thing with elm and oak. Is it stringy, fibrous, and soft?

If so, you may have not violated the back at all and just nicked the inner bark. The inner bark gets pulled off, btw. So you may be in luck.

[bigcountry]

You will know when you hit the pure white wood of hickory.  If you are guessing, then you haven't hit it.  Once the bark is off, you will have the soft bark under it.  It will be kinda figured to the bark that was on it.  Then the soft layer under that inner bark.  If you leave it for a few weeks wet, this layer will turn brown.  

I have had luck leaving this on but only drawknifing thru here and there and it looks camoflagued when it browns up.  You can then use some heavy sandpaper to get it off if you desire.  But makes good camo.


I cut down a hickory in early Oct, thinking it would be wet enough for the bark to fall off.  I have about 12 staves from it.  And basically the bark was on pretty tight.  I am trying to remove the bark now, and holy cow, I am throwing sparks gettting it off.

I see folks violating a whole bunch on hickory, and coming out ok.

[Wyostikbo]

Thanks everybody for your reply's. I think I'm alright, now that I looked it over a little better. "It's just wood" that's what my mentor used to say when I first started building bows.
Brent

[Minuteman]

Cut your hickory when its hot,like July, and the bark will come right off.

[Pat B]

I prefer to cut whitewoods early in the growing season before that's years growth ring begins to form. That way, the ring under the bark is last years growth ring and has all last summer and winter to mature insuring a very sound back ring.
   You can cut wood anytime during the growing season and the bark will "slip"; from the time that the leaves first emerge until late summer. After that the bark is tightly bound to the rest of the wood until next years ring begins to grow.

[shamus]

Pat B, that is a very good post...and worth reading again.

[Roy Steele]

There right with hickory take off the bark soon has posble.It will check up if's not done.
  I agree with PAT B white wood cut before spring for these reasons.It will have a stronger growth ring and it will be easer to see.Because after the bark comes off theres a thin inter bark.It's kind of a punky ring and it's brown.Take it down to the first growth ring.Your stave will turn white at the first growth ring.So you may not have cut through your first growth ring.Depends how deep you went.If you did I back it.

[Wyostikbo]

I'm glad my post came back up today, because I took my stave down to rough bow shape today and now that I've worked on it some there is a distinct 3/16" layer of darker wood on the back. I am assuming this is inner bark, but it is in no way soft. I draw knifed it off of one of the scrap pieces from cuttting out the bow and it seems near impossible to take it off just down to the pure white wood. What are your thoughts on leaving it as the back of the bow.
 I thought Hickory was "easier" than Osage. Just knock the bark off and there's your back. It seems harder so far. Looking forward to more guidance.
Thanks, Brent

[eaglefeather]

I may be wrong,But you take the bark off and you have brown inner bark,you can go down to the white wood,or leave some brown on for camo.you dont really chase a ring on hickory.I thought when you get down to white wood,you layed it out and started cutting out your chosen shape.then watch your sides and back, as you approach tillering.