Author Topic: New stave (Read 1874 times)

ranger 3 · « **on:** January 26, 2009, 03:59:00 PM »

I got a new blank from Mike today. It is nice but the string is not going to line up. Can I heat it up and bend it or should I work it down first?

Pat B · « **Reply #1 on:** January 26, 2009, 04:34:00 PM »

Work it down to floor tiller stage first. What wood? How about a pic or 2.

ranger 3 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 26, 2009, 05:15:00 PM »

It is Osage and floor tillered. It is about 72" long and 1" wide on the ends.

KILLER B · « **Reply #3 on:** January 26, 2009, 06:11:00 PM »

I imagine you will not be leaving the tips 1" wide. I would take it down closer to its final profile then use some sort of vegatable oil, crisco, olive oil etc. to keep from scorching the wood while using heat to bend it into shape. I use a vise that has a swivel base and clamp a 2x4 to the side of my workbench. I then heat it all the while slowly bending it further until i get it about an inch past where i think it needs to be. I then tighten the base of the vise and leave to cool slowly for 30 or so minuets before taking it out to see how close it is. From the look of the picture you should be able to get that shaped up nicely keep us updated on the progress.

shamus · « **Reply #4 on:** January 26, 2009, 07:59:00 PM »

Dry or steam heat, I'd bend it the handle to get the string in line.

Tommy Leach · « **Reply #5 on:** January 26, 2009, 08:15:00 PM »

To solve these type of issues I loosely clamp the bow with the arc up (on edge) about 8-10" from the fades on 2X4 blocks. Give yourself 3-4" under the handle. I then coat the handle and fades with cooking oil and heat with a heat gun all around the handle, especially in the "throat" area. Using a squeeze clamp bring the handle past the center line of the tips. Be sure you heat it thoroughly due to the extra mass so you don't split the limb at the fade. Let it cool overnight (again due to the extra mass). If necessary repeat or tweak the limbs if you are close. If is is perfectly unclear send me a PM maybe I can explain it better. Good Luck - Tommy

ranger 3 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 26, 2009, 08:28:00 PM »

Should I take the limbs down first?

Tommy Leach · « **Reply #7 on:** January 26, 2009, 10:09:00 PM »

Yes, go ahead and get the bow to shape and starting to bend. Leave the tips a little wide ~5/8 so you can move them if needed. Then straighten at the handle.

Pat B · « **Reply #8 on:** January 26, 2009, 10:43:00 PM »

I would also shape the bow but leave the tips wide. The tips and handle are the last thing I shape on a bow. Side nocks on the wide limb tip works fine for a tillering string with slip knots in each end.
With thick wood I coat it with oil and heat it well then I wrap it in alum foil for a few minutes to allow the heat to sink deep into the wood. Then I remove the foil and reheat and begin to straighten out the bend with clamps and blocks along a 2x4, heating as needed.
Once you get it fairly straight I would begin tillering and reheat later to true up the final bow. You may not have to reheat but only remove wood from one side or the other of the tips and/or handle.

ranger 3 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 27, 2009, 08:09:00 AM »

Thanks every one I will start it today.

KILLER B · « **Reply #10 on:** January 27, 2009, 11:41:00 AM »

Good luck.

ranger 3 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 27, 2009, 12:55:00 PM »

OK guys I got it straight what a big difference.
Thanks now I can start working on it.

razorback · « **Reply #12 on:** January 27, 2009, 03:04:00 PM »

I am working on a similar stave with straight grain but a bow in it and some natural reflex. I have seen where some bowyers will lay the bow out in the stave straight and not follow the grain, if there is enough room. Is this recommended or should I run a center line following the split grain of the side and measure the bow out from it and then straighten it. Can I add more reflex at the same time or do it in two different passes.

shamus · « **Reply #13 on:** January 27, 2009, 06:18:00 PM »

ranger, did you use steam or dry heat?

Nice job.

ranger 3 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 27, 2009, 06:43:00 PM »

I put cooking oil on it and used a heat gun.

George Tsoukalas · « **Reply #15 on:** January 27, 2009, 07:46:00 PM »

Leave the handle full width and the nocks 1 inch wide at least until you string it for the first time. You can shape the handle to track string better. Off to the left-remove more from the right of the handle. You can also cut the nocks deeper on the side the string is off center. Off on the left cut the nocks on the left deeper. At least go through long string tillering so the wood can be thin enough to heat and move. There are buildalongs on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

shamus · « **Reply #16 on:** January 28, 2009, 07:13:00 AM »

Great job!

Pat B · « **Reply #17 on:** January 28, 2009, 10:46:00 AM »

Nice job of straightening. Like George said, get the bow strung to a low brace height(4") so you can see how the string tracks. Then you can adjust the stave to correct it.
Razor, you should always follow the grain. Pat

bigcountry · « **Reply #18 on:** January 28, 2009, 04:46:00 PM »

Ranger, I keep hearing this word "blank", when people gets things from Mike. When you order something from him are you getting a "stave", or a roughed out bow?

And this brings me to another question. if it was a stave, how did you heat it enough to bend it?

ranger 3 · « **Reply #19 on:** January 28, 2009, 04:51:00 PM »

If you order a blank you get a roughed out bow. You just tiller it and finish it. I think he has staves too.

Howard

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Author Topic: New stave (Read 1874 times)

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