Bow builders I need some advice.

[digicon]

This is my first attempt at bow building and I have a problem maybe you guys can help me with.

I have layed out the limbs and I cannot get the string to track exactly through the center of the riser.  It isn't off too far (about a strings width or less) but it's bothering the $h%& out of me.  I really don't care what the bow comes out to in weight or how long it is for that matter.  Right now it is 66" long and about 58#'s.

I have supplied a picture of the bow.  Let me know what you guys would do?  I have put a notepad and a watch on each side of the bow so when you are referring to sides I will know which one you are talking about.  The string favors to the watch's side.

The string really tracks pretty good through the bottom limb.  (limb closest to camera)  I think the real problem is the top limb (farthest from camera).  I have deepened the nock about as far as I can to move the string to the right (toward notepad) and it has helped but maybe now I need to remove some would from one of the sides I don't know?

The bow is right handed.

 

Thanks for your help, please ask questions if you would like.

Thanks, Mike

[kennym]

Dang Mike,its hard to tell.The string looks a little left at riser,if the camera had been a tad further left,it all would have looked better from here.......
Draw it and let down a couple times to settle the string where it wants to go and check it out again.

[digicon]

Kenny,

After studying the bow, the limbs twist at the fadeouts on both limbs.  Worse on the limb farthest away in the picture.....very little on the limb closest.  But I am sure both of them twist slightly.


It's weird but both limbs angle to the left (side where the watch is placed) as your looking at the picture...naturally casting the string to the left side of center.  And they both begin their twist right at the fadeouts.

Should I remove a little wood from the right side (side where notepad is placed) of the limbs at the fades?  Or would this worsen the effect?  To me it makes sense to weaken this side to counter the effect but I am new to this bow stuff and it's all confusing to me.

Some of you guys who have done this please chime in.

Thanks, Mike

[Shaun]

It is most important where the string lays at the handle. Don't worry much about how it looks otherwise.

How is the rest of the bow? Draw length and weight? How is the tiller?

[kennym]

Here is what I would suggest, mark the center of the bow at the riser,and the center of your nocks. Run a string from nock to nock and see how it is with center of bow. You might be able to make the bow a bit narrower if the center is off.
I check center line this way before I lay out the limbs.

Better wait for some more opinions before you grind any tho!!  Come on guys!!  

[Holm-Made]

I hate giving advice on a bow I haven't inspected myself but your explaination is pretty clear so here goes....The bow will shoot just fine with a little twist in it but like you it would bother me too and hey, you learn by doing/fixing and trying to improve.    

Try working the mid limb of both limbs on the NOTEBOOK side with a sanding block w/100 grit sand paper.  You can do it with the bow strung laying on it's side on the bench.  Check often and pull the bow a couple times before each check.  

On the WATCH side you can also narrow the tip the last 4-5 inches slightly and deepen the nock on the WATCH side if you have room.

Chad

[Holm-Made]

I should have mentioned that I suggest doing the mid limb adjustments first and the tip narrowing procedure only if you still need to move the tip over a bit.  

Also make sure you round the edges over a little bit before drawing the bow much so you don't pull up a splinter.  Just hit it a time or 2 with the sanding block to get rid of the sharp edge.  
Good luck,  Chad

[digicon]

Holm-made when you say working the mid-limb on the the NOTEBOOK side, you mean the edge, right?....not the belly or back.  I thought thats what you mean anyway.

That is the "high" side of the twist as it lays flat on the table wtih the back facing down.  The WATCH side is the "low" side of the twist.

Like I said both limbs seem to twist a little right out of the fadeouts.  I'm not sure what I have done wrong but obviously something.

Good Idea on the drawing the bow a few times.  Ironically, the twist is not as pronounced until you draw the bow a few times.  Several times I have thought I had them fixed only to draw the bow and see they are still their.

Thanks for your help guys.  Stayed tuned I will try fixing tonight..........and will surely need more help.

Mike

[Holm-Made]

Edge.

[George Tsoukalas]

Is this self, wood lams or glass? jawge

[PV]

"Like I said both limbs seem to twist a little right out of the fadeouts.  I'm not sure what I have done wrong but obviously something."

Check your form for square. If it's out you are building twist into the bow.

[digicon]

George, This is a laminated R/D longbow.  Made up of actionwood cores and clear glass.

PV, I'll check the form for squareness.

Mike

[Trux Turning]

Hope this helps.
 

[digicon]

Thanks Trux

[TNstickn]

I built three bows out of the same form before I finally rebuilt the form. I some how missed the 1/32-1/16 twist I had built into the form. It drove me absolutely NUTS!!! I sanded, did every trick in the book. I was able to get it close, but perfect is perfect, and I have a hard time putting so much time and money into something and not have it right. Check your form, sounds like you have some built in twist. You spend a couple hours and fix it or it will really drive you NUTSO!!!

[8PT]

Are you using a template to draw and shape the limbs?  If so I hope it is not drawn from the template that comes with the Bingham plans cause we found after 2 or 3 bows it is not straight.  That is, it is not a mirror image from side to side.  I spent parts of two day just drawing up and shaping a template from a simple cad program I had on my computer till it was as near a perfect match from side to side as I could get it.  We built very simular problems as you are having into the first couple of bows.  They shot but we knew they were not right and it bugged the daylights out of us till we figured it out and fixed it.

Tommy

[kennym]

"It's weird but both limbs angle to the left (side where the watch is placed) as your looking at the picture...naturally casting the string to the left side of center. And they both begin their twist right at the fadeouts."

Mike,I'm wondering if your riser fades are thicker on one side,like your sander is a bit out.

Any luck gettin her strait? It can drive you nuts!!

[digicon]

Thanks for the input guys I really appreciate it.  I was able to correct the limbs pretty darn good by filing deeper nock grooves on one side and shaving wood from the opposite side.

 

I really think a lot of my problem was...I didn't lay the bow out correctly.  I have found the true center of my upper limb was about 1/16 off.  The lower limb was about 1/32 off.

Now the reason I had to reajust this center may be caused by some reason I am going to fix.  I suspect it is just as you guys have suggested in the form or in my tapers.  Kenny you may be on to something there.

I really don't have many tools to work with and I have no patterns at all.  I have simply free-handed it to this point.    

I started wittling on the riser last night.  the bow is fashioned after a favorite of mine.....you can probably guess from the pictures.  But I have changed the limb design (added more reflex) and relocated the "center of the bow closer to the sight window.

 

 

I have never built a bow before and after searching through the archives and looking at the tools and jigs other people are using I wonder if this thing will ever fire an arrow.  

I will keep you posted and for sure I'll be asking more questions.

Thanks again, Mike

[kennym]

Mike, for your first,it looks really good!    

Its a learning experience,every one I put together,seems I learn something. Now if I could remember it all!!  

[Trux Turning]

Hey-string is centered and the sight window cut- time to test an arrow or two- no doubt it will work.