Author Topic: Boiling tips (Read 2833 times)

John Scifres · « **Reply #20 on:** February 13, 2009, 02:22:00 PM »

It sure won't hurt any to get it bending some. I usually do before I heat bend. It just makes things a bit easier. You might take your tips them down to 1/2" or so thick. They won't need more than that when all is said and done. Have fun. Good luck.

Bert Frelink · « **Reply #21 on:** February 13, 2009, 07:24:00 PM »

Here you go,
Boiled tips, dry Osage, no cracking.

Regards, Bert.

Bert Frelink · « **Reply #22 on:** February 13, 2009, 07:27:00 PM »

Oops,
Meant to show these too

Bert

Pat B · « **Reply #23 on:** February 13, 2009, 08:03:00 PM »

Bert, I love that bow!!!

Bert Frelink · « **Reply #24 on:** February 13, 2009, 08:21:00 PM »

Thanks Pat,
It is a Bamboo backed Osage bow I build for a customer, by far the coolest bow I build, ever!!!!
61# @ 28" and 62" ntn Buffalo(Bison) tip overlays.
Bert.

ranger 3 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 14, 2009, 09:50:00 AM »

Here it is after bending and the tips line up. It has 3 1/2" from the back. Now I need to narrow the tips and start tillering.

Pat B · « **Reply #26 on:** February 14, 2009, 10:28:00 AM »

Leave the tips wide and start tillering. You may need the extra width for final adjustments and they won't effect the tiller at all. Same with the handle!

Pat B · « **Reply #27 on:** February 14, 2009, 10:29:00 AM »

By the way....she looks good so far!!!

ranger 3 · « **Reply #28 on:** February 14, 2009, 11:47:00 AM »

Thanks

Bert Frelink · « **Reply #29 on:** February 14, 2009, 12:22:00 PM »

Very nice Howard,
Go slow with the tillering, because of the early string weight the tendency is to make them too light.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Take care.
Bert.

ranger 3 · « **Reply #30 on:** February 15, 2009, 02:40:00 PM »

Ok I have got the limbs bending but the limbs and getting thiner than the curves. Do I thin the curves or leave them thick?

Pat B · « **Reply #31 on:** February 15, 2009, 03:29:00 PM »

If the curves are working curves you need to thin them along with the limb so everything works together. If they are static curves leave them as they are and reduce the width later. I like my tips thicker so I can make them narrow to reduce physical weight without reducing the strength. You may be able to reduce the thickness later but none of this is necessary until the very end...if they are static curves. With static curves you have a fade area where the limb fades into the static curve. Be sure this transition area flows smoothly.
Did the working/static thing throw a monkey wrench into the works for you? I thought I'd keep it interesting. d;^)

ranger 3 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 15, 2009, 04:15:00 PM »

Yes it did, I really don't know if they are static or working curves. How can I know this?

Pat B · « **Reply #33 on:** February 15, 2009, 04:49:00 PM »

The curve of a static recurves stay rigid through the draw and act as levers as the bow is drawn. This is the type I prefer. Actually, I haven't built a working recurve.
The curve of a working recurve opens up as the bow is drawn. This type gives you more working limb, where as on the static recurve only the mid portion of the limb bends and the tips stay rigid or static.

Most glass recurves are working recurves. A few companies make statics but they aren't the norm.

ranger 3 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 15, 2009, 04:53:00 PM »

Ok it is going to be a static so I want to leave them thick right?

Pat B · « **Reply #35 on:** February 15, 2009, 05:03:00 PM »

Yep! For now, leave them thick and wide. With recurves especially, you may need the extra wood for adjustments later and they don't need to be finished until the tillering is done.

ranger 3 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 15, 2009, 07:07:00 PM »

Here it is braced at 4" and pulled to 45#s at 15" I have a ways to go shooting for 50@27

Pat B · « **Reply #37 on:** February 15, 2009, 08:00:00 PM »

Work in closer to the handle and out towards the curves. Like I said before you have a fade at the curves as well as at the handle and you want them to blend smoothly into the limb. Watch that spot on the left limb where is is bending most. Mark that spot and do not remove any wood from there until you get the wood around it bending more.

ranger 3 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 16, 2009, 09:56:00 AM »

OK I have a problem I have a splinter coming up where there is a pin not on the back of the limb, the handle is to the left. Should I go down to another ring or should I put super glue in it. I need help

Pat B · « **Reply #39 on:** February 16, 2009, 10:23:00 AM »

If you have room to go down to another ring, do so! Be sure to leave an "island" of wood around that knot and any other you come across. It looks like you violated the growth ring that is around the knot. It is a common mistake but should be avoided. When a tree puts out a limb it adds extra wood for support around that limb. That limb "collar" should be preserved for protection also when making wood bows. Remember the wood on the back is in tension and the least violation of a back ring can be fatal and especially in a highly stressed bow like a static recurve.
Later you can remove the "island" around the knot if you are careful not to violate the ring below it.

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Author Topic: Boiling tips (Read 2833 times)

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