Please Check my long string tiller! Updated with pics!

[Pat B]

You could narrow the tips a bit more. You didn't cut the string grooves across the back did you? If so, cut them off and re-cut only on the sides and belly. If you add overlays, you can cut across the back.
   The braced and full draw look quite good. You have a little set but that is an acceptable amount.
  By pulling your bow to full draw on the tree you should be able to see if the tips recover together.

[razorback]

Thanks Pat.
No I didn't cut the string groves across the back, there is about 3/16-1/4" of back between the grooves.
When you say that the "tips recover together", what do you mean by that. I am using a tiller stick and thus have less vision of the bow bending. Am working on putting a tree together.

[Pat B]

You want both limb tips to go back to their starting point(at brace) at the same time and same rate of speed when you let down on them. This is limb timing. If one recovers before the other does or at a different rate, you will feel it as hand shock.
   Get your tiller tree done. Your bow building will improve.

[razorback]

Pat. I have the tiller tree done and checking the return of the limbs, the upper seems to return quicker and first. I hae put some wool in the string and reduced the tips some more but the hand shock is still there. How do I balance the limbs timing. Do I remove more from the slower/lower limb, which is also a little stronger than the upper limb. Or should I just finish this one call it good enough for a first bow and start another one.

[Pat B]

You might be able to remove a little physical weight without loosing too much draw weight by scraping the edges of that limb. This might be something you will have to play with so take a few scrapes off, exercise the limb and then see. If, after removing wood from the edges, you notice any extra set, stop.

[razorback]

When you say edges are you referring to the sides or the outside portion of the belly, leaving the center untouched. And should I remove it from the whole limb or the tip area.

[bigcountry]

That right limb looks stiff about 10" from the fades causing the end of the limb to bend much more.  Does anyone else see this?  Or am I wrong?

[Pat B]

Big Country I do see that.
Razor, Yes the sides. Side tillering is an option that not many folks use. Steve Gardner(Badger) wrote a chapter in the TBBIV about bow mass and that is how he removes some mass with little effect to draw weight.

[John Scifres]

I think your left limb is a bit stiffer than the right.  I'd giveit about 10 scrapes full length.  I also see a couple tweaks in the right limb.  Correct those and then check again.

 

Your tips are pretty big.  I like to have them about 1/2" wide (side-to-side) for the last 6" of the limb.  You could probably thin (back-to-belly) them a bit too.

[razorback]

I have been working that stiff spot on the right limb pretty hard, (compared to the rest of the bow) and she just doesn't want to bend. I will keep working it slowly now and try to get it to give some more.
Pat, will also do some reduction of the sides for mass reduction.
Thanks guys, I appreciate the input.
Razor

[Pat B]

Work(exercise) the stiff part well after each wood removal and go slow with removing the wood. It can all of a sudden give and that can cause a hinge.

[razorback]

Pat, when exercising I hold the bow and short draw it about fifty times rotating it so each limb does some work as top and bottom and also using both left and right hands. Is this a good way to do it or is it better to put it on the tree and use the rope. I am concerned that that section will all of a sudden give and I will end up with too weak a bow fixing it, therefore I am moving slow with it.

[Pat B]

I think you are better using the tree for exercising. You have better control over the distances you pull.
   That stiff area might just have to be a stiff area in your finished bow.   How does the bow shoot now? any less hand shock?

[razorback]

Timing is improving and hand shock is diminishing. I am not so much worried about the stiff spot as the final feel when shootiing. Like you say wood is wood and we have to take what it gives us. Overall I am very happy with how it is turning out. Will have it sanded and finished in a couple of days and then will go back to that osage stave with all the cracks in it. Should have lots of questions for you on that one too.    
Razor

[Pat B]

Bring it on!!!   d;^)

[razorback]

Well worked on it some more, got it looking good and improved timing. Did a bunch of sanding and got it nice and smooth. Spent some time shooting it in tonight and between sessions looked the bow over and found a splinter about 2" from the fade on the back of the lower limb. it is not a run out and I am going to superglue and wrap it with silk. Hopefully it will be ok as it was feeling good. Will post pictures later.

[George Tsoukalas]

Lookin' pretty good. Generally, you need more bending closer to the handle if you are aiming for more draw length. Otherwise, let the bow tell you as you draw it. If it is stacking up on you work that area close to the handles with a scraper. Jawge