Do you think this will be a problem? Osage Pin

[bigcountry]

I have been working on a stave for a long time.  After taking off litterly 10 rings, I finally got to one that is thick enough for a good back and still have enough wood for a stiff handle.  Its almost floor tillered.  I need to steam the handle to take out a curve.

Do you think this pin will be a problem?  I was careful as I can be with it, but with a scraper, I scraped over it, and here is what is left.  The one on the left isn't that bad.  I don't think I will gain much going down another ring.   Its right after the fades.  I was thinking of sinewing.  Great looking stave.  Only pins on it.

   

   

   

[Pat B]

If you are concerned put a drop of super glue over it...or both of them. Where they are in the layout doesn't pose too much of a problem because it probably won't be bending(too much) there.
  I think sinew would be overkill unless you had planned on it to begin with. You might consider a rawhide or cloth backing if you are still concerned.

[bigcountry]

Does rawhide or cloth backing keep pins and knots from lifting splitners?  I was actually considering sinew just that area and putting snakes over it.

[Pat B]

Yes, they should. That is generally the only reason I back a selfbow.

[Ostrorogi]

That pin is so close to handle that will not cause problems... I would be more worried because of that crack, how will you fix that crack. If you will recive water or moisture in it, it can cause you big problems later on...

[Pat B]

I would put super glue in the check also. If nothing else, it will seal it.

[bigcountry]

You mean that pencil line?

I was experimenting with a few differnet center lines and didn't pick that one.

[Pat B]

...on the right side of the limb up the middle. Check or pencil line?

[John Scifres]

Original question

No

[bigcountry]

Originally posted by Pat B:
...on the right side of the limb up the middle. Check or pencil line?

I was using a fine lead pencil and pressed too hard in the grain.

[Eric Krewson]

I wouldn't back that bow, those pins are nothing.

Osage is pretty tough stuff I have been shooting this bow for 2 years, lots of arrows. Even this knot on the edge hasn't been a problem.

 

[shamus]

I wouldn't worry about the pin knots.

[bigcountry]

Thanks guys.  

Also, went home to erase that pencil line and yep that pencil line turned into a check.  What the crap.  So anyway, I sanded down a bit and it pretty deep.  Deep enough I guess.  So I coated it with crazy glue.   I need to bend the bow at the handle anyway, so I figured I should coat the entire area with crazy glue.  At least the back, to keep from drying out more.  My downstairs has been at 15% humidity with a woodstove going.  I have been drying out hickory there, but I guess too dry for osage.

[Pat B]

I think you are still trying to engineer a wood bow instead of just building it! You are working with a living, breathing material and not a static material.
  If your stave was well cured it should not have checked on the back. If you are unsure that your stave is seasoned, a quick spray of shellac over the back will seal it to prevent checking and can be removed easily, if necessary, later.
  During the winter, in most areas of the US, the R/H id very low. Wood will dry without being forced but if you want to force it, do what must be done to dry it without causing other problems; reduce it to almost bow dimensions, seal the back and ends and allow it time to dry before stressing it. Impatience kills more wood bows than not and leads to frustrations that will kill the next one.

[bigcountry]

Your probably right Pat.  But I just took it down to its last ring last week, and was in the process of working around those pins, so it only took a few days to check.  

I bought this stave of **** and the guy told me it was seasoned for a few years.  The wood was dark orange, so I believed him.

Maybe I should have immediately have sealed the back

Ok, so damage done.  You think it (check) shouldn't be a problem?  I am going to rawhide the back.

[Pat B]

The check will not be a problem unless it runs off the limb. Fill it with super glue and continue on with the tillering.
   What I like to do when I have knots and pins is leave an island of the previous ring around it and continue on with the rest of the tillering. Later I will come back with a small scraper or pocket knife and from the center out, all around the knot, scrape that island off, or you can leave them on if not too big. This way you don't violate the ring(branch collar) around the knot.

[Eric Krewson]

Fill the crack with super glue and it won't be a problem. One of the other bows I shoot a lot has a bunch of checks like that all up and down the limb, all filled with superglue. The bow is 5 years old. I made it out of a really rough piece of wood  was going to throw away because it was so cracked and very narrow. I made a very good bow out of the wood, one of my best.

I counted all the superglue filled checks on this bows back and came out with ten. I like Loc Tite superglue, fills cracks well and hasn't ever failed on me.

Here is a crack like yours, actually two.

 

Here are a few near the tips.

 

[bigcountry]

Eric, your the master.  How many bows have you made?  

Each one I make, I learn so much.  But this check kinda surprised me.  I don't think i will keep wood in 10% humidity anymore.

[ChristopherO]

I was belly toasting an osage bow, yesterday, and a couple of small cracks formed.  Filling them with superglue and then running the heat gun over the glue really let it run into the crack well.

[bigcountry]

Thanks Chris, good tip.