Author Topic: Tillering question  (Read 1216 times)

Offline Gerald

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Tillering question
« on: March 11, 2009, 01:08:00 PM »
During the tillering process, how do I know when to move the string to next tillering peg? Is it a crap shoot to see if it will break or not?

Offline Talin342

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2009, 01:13:00 PM »
In general you move it when the bow is bending evenly and you don't see any noticable hinges or flat spots. If you've built your bow well enough and you've exercized the limbs after each time you've taken wood off you should be fine.  If you do move to the next notch I wouldn't imagine that it would be an immediate catastrophic failure, but you might hear some cracking and have several seconds before she blows.

Just my two cents on observations on the bows I built.

Offline Talin342

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2009, 01:14:00 PM »
P.S Try this page it might help.

 http://www.geocities.com/salampsio/index.html

Online Pat B

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2009, 01:41:00 PM »
What Talin said.
  I personally don't like using a tiller stick with pegs. Holding a wood bow for more than a few seconds, especially one that is being tillered, is harmful to the bow. I prefer to use a tiller tree with a rope and pulley as pictured below.
 
 
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Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2009, 11:46:00 AM »
There are buildalongs on my site that will help answer that question. Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/layout.html

Offline John Scifres

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #5 on: March 13, 2009, 03:57:00 PM »
Also, never pull it over your target weight.  The keys are, get it bending fairly evenly in the first 6" or so of bend.  Then pull it to around your target weight.  Adjust tiller and reduce weight if necessary.  Keep doing this, pulling farther and farther until you are a couple inches short of full draw.  Then exercise it like crazy.  

I like to shoot it at short draw some too.  Then check tiller and weight and sand out all the tool marks.  Check tiller, check weight and get to final draw.  You will lose a little weight in shooting it in.  If you've done your job, this shouldn't be more than 5#.
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Offline Roy Steele

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2009, 02:49:00 AM »
PAT is right use a pully system.I never use a peg system.Your bow should never be left on a peg wile being bent for to long of time.Remember your teaching your bow memory.Excese stress on your limbs will cause string follow and set in your bow.
DEAD IS DEAD NO MATTER HOW FAST YOUR ARROW GETS THERE
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Offline UnderControl16

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2009, 05:15:00 PM »
I read that you are suppose to move your bow down slowly on your tiller, leaving it at each point for like 15 minutes so that it won't break the nex ttime that you pull it to there. How do you tiller? Also what do you mean by exercize the limps? I mean like how far do you pull it back and such to exercize a limp? Sorry if i seem pester some, just trying to learn to give my bows a better chance to survive.

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2009, 05:41:00 PM »
You have to have a bow scale to know how far you can pull your bow back as you tiller it. If you want a 50# bow, floor tiller, tiller at less than brace height on a tillering string( extra long, longer than your bow) string your bow and check the poundage with an arrow marked in inches. If you get to 14" and your scale reads 50# don't pull it any further until you remove wood from the limbs.

Ideally you perfect your tiller as you drop poundage on your way reaching your normal draw lenght.

I have pegs in my tillering tree and will leave a bow on the pegs at up to 20"draw for about 30 seconds while I check tiller with a gizmo, no problems.

Offline Roy Steele

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2009, 08:10:00 PM »
To UNDER CONTROL never pass your last tillering point or mesureing point.Go slow then go slowed.
DEAD IS DEAD NO MATTER HOW FAST YOUR ARROW GETS THERE
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Offline Steve Kendrot

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2009, 03:20:00 AM »
UnderControl: You need to exercise the limbs each time you remove wood from them in order for the changes to register. This is done first by floor tillering 15-20 times on each limb, then by restringing and drawing it or pulling it on your tillering tree several times, taking care not to draw past the point where your desired weight is met. A scale is critical here. I tillered my first bow by feel and it came in way underweight. It helps to think about how the wood bends. Wood fibers along the back of the bow must stretch as the bow is flexed, whereas fibers along the belly must compress during the draw. Somewhere in the middle is a neutral band of wood that neither stretches or compresses as the bow is drawn. However, as wood is removed from the belly, that neutral zone moves closer to the back of the bow, and wood that formerly stretched is now in the neutral zone. If the bow is pulled back too far and belly wood is then removed, the neutral zone may move so far towards the back, wood that was formerly trained to stretch may now lie in the compression zone. Wood can't handle this drastic change and maintain structural integrity. This is why everyone is advising to tiller by weight, not draw length. If your goal is a 50 pound bow, by making sure you never draw past 50 pounds you will teach your bow to bend incrementally. Each time you remove wood, you will gain another fraction of an inch. Its a time consuming process that can't really be rushed.

Offline UnderControl16

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #11 on: March 29, 2009, 03:28:00 PM »
Ok does anyone know where i can get a scale in SouthWest Wisconsin because i have looked and i haven't been able to find any scales that go above like 40#.

Online Pat B

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #12 on: March 29, 2009, 05:15:00 PM »
Check out sporting goods stores for a deer scale.
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Offline John Scifres

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #13 on: March 29, 2009, 10:42:00 PM »
Do you have a bathroom scale?  If so, do like this.

 

Get a 6' 1x2.  Make a little notch in the end for the string.  Mark it every inch for 28".  Put it on top of a bathroom scale.  Pull down.  Read weight.
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Offline AKmud

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #14 on: March 29, 2009, 11:29:00 PM »
How important is "floor tillering"?  I find myself testing the tiller against the floor only for a few times after I rough out a board on my band saw.  I then move to a long string on my tillering tree.  Am I missing something by not spending more time floor tillering?  I have a hard time analyzing the wood from that angle so I like to get it on the tree to see what is going on.

Online Pat B

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #15 on: March 29, 2009, 11:38:00 PM »
I floor tiller until I feel comfortable to move on. Usually it is to about 4" of tip movement.
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Offline razorback

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #16 on: March 30, 2009, 06:35:00 AM »
when exercising the bow I know what is too far but is there "not far enough", limb movement. If I have my bow reaching weight at 20" I have been exercising it to 12-15". My thought process is that that moves the limbs without putting strain on them. Do they need to exercise closer to the draw length at weight.
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Offline UnderControl16

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Re: Tillering question
« Reply #17 on: March 30, 2009, 04:14:00 PM »
Thanks a ton John i had forgotten about that way to do it but i will have to try it tonight.

I have to agree with Akmud here too, i also have a hard time floor tillering and just tend to do it on the tree with a long string to start out with.

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