Bamboo Backed Ipe (PICS now on page 2)

[Pat B]

Cutting across the back is dangerous unless you are using overlays. The boo will splinter there.
  Everything else looks good.

[Steve Kendrot]

That's pretty! I've not seen ipe in a finished bow before. What did you stain the bamboo with? I cut a shelf into my first bow. It's got A beefy handle and even with the bulbous design the arrow was way off center. I would think a stiff handle would protect the bamboo from splintering? I hope so!

[BEN]

Thanks Pat----I'll remember that from now on!!

Steve----I used Ebony "Minwax" stain from Wal-mart. Used 3 coats, wiping off at different times.Then finished with 3 coats of Tru-oil. Kinda hard to see, but it fades to light at mid limbs and then back to dark at the tips.

Now if I can just get a heavier bow to turn out ( and not cut across the back) I'll be happy!

I'll probably be back with more questions once I find some more Ipe

Ben

[BEN]

Another question......how does all these dimensions work in regards to using flat-grain (boards) versus quarter-sawn lumber, which is what we've been using?

My friend Jim has a bamboo backed Ipe bow that is 62# @ 28". It is only 5/16 @ handle and fades and goes down to 1/4" at tips and very slim design---about 3/8 wide at tips......

Ben

[Springbuck]

This I can tell you.   R/D bows will feel REALLY heavy at first.  Tiller from the fades out and make sure that inner limb bends, but not TOO much.  Otherwise, you'll work the middle limb down too much and suddenly, as the tips come around, it will be too soft and bending too much in the middle, and PRESTO!  Thirty lb bow...

[BEN]

Thanks for that heads-up!!! Really, that's what happened with the first one too---it stayed feeling stiff and then when we tried putting short string on it---presto-whip tip on the lower limb! Cut off the bamboo and started over.