Getting Ready To Start

[White Oak]

Guys, I'm in the process of finishing up a few projects in my shop so I can focus on an attempt at bow building only.
Looking for a horizontal belt sander as this is about the only power tool I think I may need. I found a " like new " 10" drum sander at a decent price but I'm along way from needing that.
Sooooo, here come the questions.
I would like to start by building a heat box. Does anyone have plans for one ? I tried a search here but struck out.
My second question is why do we use heat? I have read a couple of articles were the glue was allowed to dry for about 5 days without using a heat box. There have to be advantages to the heat other than drying time. Do you  use a thermostat in your boxes? What is the optimal temp and how long do you cook your bows? Do you use a formica strip between your forms and the bows?
I got my Binghams catalog today. I see the sell fire hose and the price isn't bad. I have several friends who are fireman with different depts and think I may be able to get some from them. What diameter am I looking for?
My first bow will be a straight longbow.I really liked the form that Apex used with the dowels and bands made from tubes. Can you tell me how far from the edge of the form the dowels are placed and what is the spacing between them? I also need a riser design for a straight longbow. My longbows are R/D. What do you think? should I buy the print from Binghams?
I am hoping to get started on my oven this weekend. This bow building thing is starting to keep me awake at night.
Sorry for being so long winded. This is only the beginning.No one asks questions better than I.You guys will be evicting me from this forum shortly.
Thanks in advance.

                 Take care,
                           Ed  

[Apex Predator]

On my straight bow form my dowels are 1 3/4" down from the top, and spaced 2 1/2" on centers.  My risers are 16" with a 4 1/4" handle section. These risers are 1 1/2" deep which will make a grip depth of almost 2" with most lam stacks.  If I want anything more radical than a mild locater style grip, I will start with a little deeper riser.

 

 

[bjansen]

White Oak,  I'll comment on a few of the hot box questions:


The heat not only excellerates the cure but also enhances the cure.  It makes the bow (i.e. epoxy holding it together) able to withstand higher heat temps when finished. Imagine how hot your trunk gets in the summer (likely up to 130-140 degrees)...if you have a bow in there which can not withstand those temps it may delaminate.  I would say a good temp is between 150 and 180 degrees.  I believe the Smooth On Can indicates a cure of 4 hours at 160 degrees.  

As for boxes.  I have seen 2 variations:

1.  Place 3 light bulbs on the floor, place the bow/form by it and just make a tent like cover to go over top of it to keep the heat in.  Generally you would see the use of the metal bubble wrap as the tent material and the use of a pvc frame.

2.  A wooden hot box.  The inside deminsions of mine are roughly 12" wide, 76" long, 28" high. I would make the entire box, glue/screw or nail it up...then cut the lid off (basically cut it in half).  I put outlets for 3 bulbs at the bottom then wooden supports for my bow forms to sit on to keep them off the bulbs.  I used bubble wrap on the inside for insulation and also stuck a turky thermometer in the side to measure the temp.  I use 3, 150 watt bulbs to cook the bow.

[tommy6]

I Made my latest heat box by using a big cardboard box I that my bench top band saw came in. Its about 36x12x30" high. I opened 1 side to use for the top and folded the cardboard over to add stability. For the heat I used a dual lamp that is made for heating/ lighting reptile cages that I had (Since my poor dead monitor lizard doesnt need it anymore). I lined part of it with some leftover foam packaging and tin foil. It holds a temp of 145- 150. I use this for takedown bow limbs, risers etc.

[Apex Predator]

Here is what I use.

 

 

 

 

[bjansen]

That is the picture I was looking for Apex...that is a sleek method...much lighter than my plywood box

[Apex Predator]

I bet it doesn't weight 10#.

[White Oak]

Thanks for the replies. All good ideas and you have given me some options on the box.I appreciate the scoop on using heat Brad. I figured there was a reason besides impatients.
Apex, thanks a bunch for posting the pics and the details on your form. I have seen your work here and it is first class. I am wondering if I even want to use the hose method.Are all of your forms the band type? It appears that the idea is to cover the entire limb with bands as to leave no area without preasure.About how many bands are you getting on a dowel and how many does it take on the form pictured? Am I looking for a certain size tube when I visit the bike shop ? Do you use anything between the bow and the form? I can see that there is something between the bands and the bow I assume to get the preasure equally across the limb.
As for your hot box. It looks as though it could be made to tear down and put away when not in use.Just a PVC frame and the insulating material or is there something under the material? Pvc is no problem. Where do you find the material? What kind of tape withstands the heat?
Thanks again guys for the help.
I know you would rather be building bows.

             Ed

[Apex Predator]

Are all of your forms the band type?

Yes, I currently have a straight longbow form, a mild R/D, and a pronounced R/D (hybrid).  They are all the same type.

It appears that the idea is to cover the entire limb with bands as to leave no area without preasure.About how many bands are you getting on a dowel and how many does it take on the form pictured?

Exactly!  I use 6-7 strip clamps per limb.  I use more around the high risk areas, like the fadeouts.

Am I looking for a certain size tube when I visit the bike shop ?

I simply ask for the ones that they are throwing away, and get them free.  Little pin holes won't affect anything.  I cut the valve stems out, and then cut them into either two or three strips length-wise.  I want the strips to be around 1" wide.  The tubes come with ridges that you can follow with sissors.  I haven't found one yet that I couldn't use.  I tie a knot in each end for looping over the dowels.  I use 1/2" hard wood dowels.  I like 1 1/2" protruding out the sides.

Do you use anything between the bow and the form?

I have a thin (1/8" or so) piece of rubber glued to the top of the form.  Before glue up, I will lay several thicknesses of saran wrap over the form.  When I am ready to start clamping I will wrap the plastic around the lams, being careful not to trap any plastic between the lams.

I can see that there is something between the bands and the bow I assume to get the preasure equally across the limb.

Yes, those are my pressure strips.

As for your hot box. It looks as though it could be made to tear down and put away when not in use.Just a PVC frame and the insulating material or is there something under the material? Pvc is no problem. Where do you find the material? What kind of tape withstands the heat?

The insulating material comes on a 25' roll designed to be wrapped around a water heater.  I used high temp duct tape to hold it together.  It's about to cook my 20th bow, so it holds up great.

Do a search on my handle, and you can see quite a few partial, and full build-a-longs.  Most of your questions can be answered with photos that I have taken over the last year.

If you have any other questions, I will answer them to the best of my ability.

Marty

[White Oak]

Thanks alot Marty. I really appreciate your time.
         Take care,
                   Ed

[toddster]

Awesome

[monterey]

Apex is giving you great advice.  I had been using the hose method but switched to bands on the last glue-up with good results.  A big plus with bands is the form is less complex AND more versatile since the design is not subject to the shape of the top half of the form.  Risers can go from 12" to 18" with no form modifications.

my oven is an insulated plywood box with four 200W bulbs in the top controlled by a thermostat but the one apex illustrated would serve just as well.

I also cooked one in the car on a clear hot day with good results.