IPEboo Tiller

[bigcountry]

Ok, I haven't worked on this bow for a few months.  I added some Silk thread wraps to every node.  I took the nodes down too much and on two of them they started lifting a splinter.  Then after I shot it 100 times, I started noticing a gap starting to form at the intersection of the power lam and fades and boo.  So I filled with super glue and wrapped with sinew.  

Frank Bullet sent me some elk sinew, and I really apprecate it.  

So after all this, I think I have named the bow "damage" or "split and glue" because I have wraps and sinew everywhere.  I went crazy on teh wraps, not all the nodes needed it.

Ok, here's my question.  She is at 56lbs at28".  But feels like its stacking for some reason. Its the hardest 55lbs I ever pulled.  Slight hand shock.  But its blazing fast.  I bet its as fast as a fiberglass backed bow.

Is this because my tips are stiffer?  Since I have the wraps, I can't do much tillering.  But I can loosen up the top limb at the 12" from the tips.  I have an almost even tiller.  But would rather some positive tiller.

Should I loosen up the tips?

 
 

[No-sage]

How wide are the limb tips?

[dutchwarbow]

ipé is very dense stuff so you might have to make the nocks twice as narrow as you're used to (it's almost twice as heavy as most whitewoods).

maybe you should take some wood from the sides, at the tips...

the tiller looks excelent to me, not really fond of the short-faded handle though  

Nick

[bigcountry]

Tips are way narrow now.  Like 3/8" or less.

But what about the tiller?

[Dano]

Overall tiller looks pretty good, a little stiff near the fades, not much you can do now. I'd scrape where ever I could On that top limb and get at least 1/8" positive tiller, That will prolly help the hand shock some. Was your tapper too abrupt on your power lamb or what?

[bigcountry]

I had the hardest time making that stupid power lam.  One, I made it from raw timber I had laying around I used to make staves.  So first trouble was getting a good even cut on both sides.  I have a planer I used.  Then I messed up feathering them.  So the feathering after doing 3 of em went from abrut to much feathering.


I was talking to Dean Torges about it when I ordered some stuff from him, and he said its glue creep using TBIII.  He claims living in MD, TBIII doesn't work out as well as living in TX.  

Next time, I plan on using URAC.

[Dano]

I hear ya on the power lam, I think a guy could make a jig for them, if he made a lot of em. Dean would know, can't argue with him.

[bigcountry]

I can't figure it out.  I talk to Richard Saffold, who builds tons of these bows only with TBIII and never has a failure.  My buddy in TX who uses TBIII says he won't go back to URAC.  
 
I think Pat on here said he has good luck and lives in simular climate as I do.

Maybe it was just bad fit.

[Dano]

I have had good luck with TB glues too, it could be a fit problem or maybe you starved the joint (not enough glue) right there at the fades is a pretty stressful spot. That's the one good thing about Urac, the fit doesn't have to be that good, it will fill the gaps.

[Tom Leemans]

TB actually likes tight joints, I believe. As for how the glue works where you live, well Rich lives in Cali dude!  :cool:

[bigcountry]

Dano, I think you got a point on the tiller.  right now, she is shooting 165fps with a 510gr arrow.  Better than any selfbow I have.  

With an even or slightly neg tiller, I have to nock the arrow little under 3/4" over center.  More than I ever had on any bow.  This has to mean something.

[Shore08]

The background you made looks good. Judging off that the tiller looks pretty good to me, but I've got very limited experience in this sorta thing, I'm still trying to learn  :D

[Crick3t]

That bow is gorgeous!

I've been planning out a Boo-backed ipe shortbow for a little while now, and I was actually planning on wrapping it with sinew in a few places intentionally, so I'm pleased to see I'm not alone, even if that wasn't your original intent.  Glad to hear it's fast, too!

I've been attempting to decipher the climate discussion, but I don't know enough about your areas to understand which glue would be more appropriate for my area (I'm in Northern California, up near Tahoe and the Redwoods).  Does anyone have any suggestions about which would work better, between TBIII and Urac?

Also, I've read on the forums here in at least one place that a hotbox isn't necessary for the glue-up of bows like these, so long as you give it a full week or so to cure.  Is that true?  I don't really have the space for such a piece of gear...

Thanks!