end grain orientation

[coulter]

hi guys! this is my first post, im new to bow building so please bare with me. i am planing to build an ipe bow backed with hickory, i saw a plan for such a bow but the growth rings on the hickory were running up and down instead of side to side, is this the proper orientation for hickory backing. any help would be great, thanks

[Art B]

I've not used the edge grain orientation but I've seen it used. I've used the bias cut (like this//////) and it worked fine. Did have a problem with some edge grain Ipe I used on the belly though. Good luck with yours.

ART B

[Pat B]

Hickory is pretty tough. Either edge grain or bias grain will work but like Art said biased grain is best. Another more important thing is if you have grain run offs along the edge of the backing strip. Those areas can cause problems if a splinter raises there.
   Hickory backed ipe will make an excellent bow. Keep your limbs narrow though. 1" to 1 1/4" max. What draw length and weight are you shooting for?

[coulter]

thanks for the help art & pat i need all the help i can get. pat the bow i am hopeing for is 66" ntn and 50@27".

[Pat B]

You can easily achieve that with a bow of 1" width(maybe 1 1/8") at the fades and out 6" to 8" before tapering to 1/2" tips. The tips can be reduced more later after the tillering is done.

[coulter]

thanks again pat, i pick my wood up today hope they have some stright stuff.i will let you know how i get on.

[Pat B]

Be careful of grain swirls in the ipe. Study the grain very well along the planed surfaces. It is hard to see the grain in ipe most of the time but if you can point it towards the sunlight(or other strong light) you should be able to see any bad grain.

[coulter]

hi guys, i finally got some wood. i picked up an ipe board 1"x6" and also hickory which i cut backing. i was thinking of making an english style longbow ipe with hickory backing, 66' NTN 50LBS@27" does this sound possible for a first time bow builder

[Pat B]

With hickory backed ipe a 1" wide bow will easily make 50#. I would go with a rectangular cross section with a slightly rounded belly. Either a straight taper from the fades or out 6" to 8" before tapering.

[coulter]

thanks for the advise pat ithink i will give it a shot. can i use tight bond 3 for the glueup or do i have to build a hot box and use epoxy.   noel

[Pat B]

You can use TB glue. I have used it on a couple of hickory backed ipe with good results.  Others prefer Urac for this. You don't need a hot box for Urac but at least 70deg(F) and leave the glue up on the form over night. With heat you can be done in a couple of hours.

[coulter]

thanks alot pat, i really appreciate all your help. i will let you know how i make out.    noel

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

Pat B mentioned holding the bow to the sunlight to study the grain on the IPE. A trick that I use to check grain is to wipe the wood with a cloth dampened with denatured alcohol.  On some woods it is like revealing invisible ink!  Not sure with IPE but give it a try.

pete

[coulter]

thanks pete i will give it a try.   noel

[coulter]

hi guys , i finally got some work done on my board bow,. its ipe backed with hickory, the ipe is 3/4 and the hickory is 3/16 iglued a10"x3/4 riser on as well. the top width is 1, 1/16 tapered to 1/2 at the nocks. i dont know how thick to make it at the fades and nocks. im trying for a 66" ntn 50@27" could anybody give a starting measurement, any help is greatly appreciated.    noel