How'd they do that?

[muskiedaze]

Hey guys, I'm looking at a Bear kodiac hunter. The maple riser is stained green with thin natural maple accent strips on either side of an 1/8" strip which appears to be stained blue. I assume the riser has to be glued-up,shaped and sanded before it is stained. I don't think one could stain it afterward without having the stain bleed between the different layers. Got me stumped. Any ideas? Thanks,  John

[dutchwarbow]

hm. My guess is that the stain they used penetrated the wood pretty far, so that sanding wouldn't take it off, that they stained the wood to the core, so to say. Thought something like this is used for dymondwood etc? staining under high pressure or so?

the lams might have been cut and sanded to the outlines, then glued together in such a clean matter that they didn't need no further sanding. But this sounds very unlikely.

Nick

[bluegill]

John,

In a riser that has some stained or impregnated wood like your Kodiak hunter; that process is done before glue up. After glue up the riser blank is sanded and shaped. Check out some of the laminated bow build-a-longs on this page and you will see some fine examples of laminated risers.

Sean

[Jesse Peltan]

The thin laminates are stained and then glued up so the stain penetrates throughout the block.

[muskiedaze]

Hmmm, All good thoughts.....but, maple is really hard. I wonder how far you could get stain to penetrate, even under pressure, even if the main riser block was roughed to shape before glue-up.Dymondwood layers are only 1/32 thick. I think Fred might have had a few tricks up his sleeve. I'm facing a similar situation with my footed arrows. How can I stain the shaft after the footing is sanded to shape without staining the footing. Granted, stain doesn't penetrate the hardwood(e.g.osage,purpleheart)nearly as much as the cedar, but it still stains. Oh, another thing: Where did Fred get that awesome green fiberglass this kodiak is made with? Wish I could get some of that. Thanks for the replies, John