The "So You Wanna Build a Bow?" Build-Along

[David Holt]

Tom/4rest,

Yep, The heat tempering and reflex did no help with the string follow. I took it off the board after about 3 days and backed it with brown paper.  I braced it the next day and shot about 12 arrows out of it and presto...the set was back, but not as bad.

BTW, 4rest, what is the optimum brace height for these pyramid bows?  I'm shooting 5" arrows but im thinking of getting a 4" cutter cause I'm kinda diggin a lower brace height and my 5" feathers are draggin.

[4est trekker]

David:  The brace height depends a lot on your arrow setup and your release style.  Generally a slightly higher brace height in needed for three-under release.  

In regards to fletch length, I prefer a minimum of 5".  If the bow is centershot or near centershot, you can usually get away with 4" fletches.  The 5" to 5 1/2" fletches really help the arrow stabilize a whole lot more quickly than 4" do.

HOWEVER, if you find a setup that works, than you can't really argue with it.  It the arrows fly well, hit their mark, and leave the bow quietly, then you've found the pocket, so to speak.

[David Holt]

4est

Hate to bombard you with more questions (not really) but I have another.  Here are some pics of the bow Im working on.  I can't tell if this is a good positive tiller or if I need to take more off the stiffer left (lower) limb.

Initial Brace
 

tiller @ 27"
 

Brace after excersizing the limbs about 50 times
 

[Bill Sagues]

4est
I take it that it is a case of less is more (with the drywall tape backing).  On the next one I will try just one layer of tape.
Since the next bow will only be 2" wide at its widest point I have also tapered the thickness from 3/4" at the fade to 3/8" at the tip.  I plan on tillering it slowly and working the limbs as I take off the wood on the belly.  I will post pixs when I get it close.
Thanks for the reply and the help.

[SSGN_Doc]

Alright, you asked for results pics.  No big game, but here is the frist kill from my "build along bow"  It may have been a bit overbowed for the game, but he did not suffer (both lungs and heart were hit).  Shot was taken from my back patio to our distant oak, somewhere between 40-45 feet (17 paces).  This bow puts arrows where I look.

If the pic is too graphic let me know and I'll modify it.

 

[David Holt]

AWSOME MARK!!  BTW, i trimmed up your other bow.

[SSGN_Doc]

Unfortunately my dogs got ahold of the little guy when I went in to get my knife to skin the fella.  The tail is about the only salvageable part.  I thought I had him up high enough but the little acrobatic Yorkie/Pommeranian mix can get a lot of places I don't give him credit for.
Between him and the black lab they did a number on it.

Oh, and thanks Dave.

[4est trekker]

Very, very good work, and excellent shooting!  If you can hit a squirrel at 17 paces, all the other critters in the woods (big and small) better keep their head down!  Again, excellent work!

[4est trekker]

Many are asking what to do if they don't have a bandsaw.  (In actuality, the bandsaw can be a tool that can spell the end of a bow...or more!...in a hurry if not used properly.  However, it can also knock a bow out in a blazing hurry if used correctly.)  SO...for those of you without a bandsaw, and for those not comfortable with its use, here's what I recommend to take the limbs down to thickness, cut the fades, and shape the handle.

I would assemble a tool kit consisting of a drawknife, Stanley Surfom rasp (or similar), a 4-in-1 rasp, a flat-bladed knife or cabinet scraper, sandpaper, steel wool, and a coping saw.

To take the limbs to thickness and rough out the fades, start with the drawknife, but TAKE IT SLOW!  You can tear wood up in a hurry with a drawknife.  When you get close to your taper lines, dig in with the Surform rasp.  These things can take wood off in a hurry, but do so in a much more controlled manner.  They will leave behind a slightly gouged surface, so follow that up with your drawknife or flat-bladed knife used as a scraper, or a dedicated cabinet scraper.  This is where you can true the belly up and make sure it doesn't have a crown (i.e. radius).  Follow that up with some sandpaper (optional) and steel wool, and you're set!

Use the coping saw to rough out the handle.  Then continue with the 4-in-1 rasp.  Hit it with some sandpaper, and finally steel wool.  

I also like to burnish the entire bow with a round piece of glass or metal to give it a nice appearance and keep inhibit splinters from raising on the back.

Hope this helps!

[SSGN_Doc]

I found that the burnishing trick also helps to show any sublte tool marks that may still be remaining.  This was useful after using a orbital sander to get final leveling of limb surfaces, as it makes some fairly subtle swirl marks in the wood that can be missed when final sanding.

[4est trekker]

David: In regards to you question about positive tiller, the best test it to take a picture or video of the bow at full draw in your hand, or simply look at it in a mirror.  That will tell you more than a braced picture.  However, if you've got more clearance between the string and the top fade than you do at the bottom fade, you've got positive tiller.  How much you need will be dependent upon the tiller at full draw in the hand.  

Keep 'em coming!    

[Bob Barnes]

absolutely wonderful job!  I also teach kids at school to make bows and never tried a bow of this type...we have used 1 by 2s and broken a lot of boards... yours may cost a little more initially, but the results will be much better I think.
thanks much.
Bob

[Bill Sagues]

Well I have mostly finished my second attempt at an oak board bow.  I had about 2 inches of width left from the original 1x6x6 board I bought for the first attempt. Since the next bow was going to be slightly less than 2 inches wide I followed a different design - I tapered the thickness as well the width on the limbs.  It has gone reasonably well so far and I have it to about 45# at 28 inches.  I have shot a few arrows out of it and so far and it has held together.  Here are a few pictures of my second attempt.

At brace height.
 

At 28 inches.
 

A group from ~ 12 yards.
 


Thanks again 4est for the inspiration and great build along.

Merry Christmas!

[4est trekker]

Looks and shoots great, Bill!  Great job.  Could you post a picture at full draw in the hand?  

It must be nice being where you can practice outdoors year round.  We've got about 18 inches of snow on the ground and plenty of wind to blow it around!  They're calling for 4 more inches tonight.  Oh well.  Makes chasing those bunnies a lot easier!

Again, good work and thanks for posting.

PS. Could you share your dimensions so that others might benefit?  Thanks.

[Bill Sagues]

Yeah - LOL - It got to about 78 degrees this afternoon.  Didn't feel a whole lot like Christmas but then again that is why we live in FLA.

The bow is 72" total length, 70" ntn, 2" wide at the fades tapered to 1/2" at the tips.
Been a lot of fun so far.

I am going to attempt an Ipe - Hickory backed bow next.

Thanks again for everything.

Ps.  I have been following your Osage Flat bow build on the other thread - GREAT JOB! - one day I will have to give it a go....

[Grizzzly]

Great build along, going to find a board in the AM.

[David Holt]

I'm about 2 hours north of Bill....almost 75 degrees here on xmas day....!!!!!!

Dave

[SSGN_Doc]

Looks great Bill.

[SSGN_Doc]

Sorry, double tapped it.

[Russell S.]

wish my doc was a bowyer!!!  he saw my hands the other day and asked, as i explained fiberglass and coco dust messing them up he just didn't understand. your bows look great doc! plus that was one heck of a shot on that squirrel!! you should get with Marty and make one like that on a pig we usta hunt together in your neck of the woods!