The "So You Wanna Build a Bow?" Build-Along

[4est trekker]

Sammy: check out page 12.  It should help you out a bit.    

[J. Holden]

Hey Sammy,

I did most my shaping of the handle with a 4-1 file.  Took quite a bit of time but I was able to get my handle "just right".  Good luck.

-Jeremy  

[J. Holden]

Sammy,

Now that I think of it I did go to my father-in-laws house and use his bandsaw.  If you don't have one, like me, I had thought of contacting the high school wood shop and seeing if they had one I could use.  Just a thought.

-Jeremy  

[Jeff Smith]

You can cut the bulk off with what ever saw you like then shape with a rasp easy enough. I have a bandsaw but have built quite a few this way also.
Good Luck and keep us posted.
Jeff

[fish n chicks]

I use a coping saw to remove the bulk of my handles, and then go to town with a 4 in 1. It'll take time, and rhythm to get great consistent results, but turn the radio up and find your happy place. You seriously don't need a band saw. I have one and don't use it for the handle. Before you know it you'll have a pile of shavings and a sweet handle.

[rover brewer]

great to see this still going strong, I'm still working on mine close to finishing I think I'm going to back it brown paper like you have shown and than black snakeskin.

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

A jig saw will cut it easily if you have one.  Before I had a band saw I would use a regular wood saw.  I would cut straight to the edge of the  grip in the middle and then aim for it from the sides taking out triangle shaped pieces of wood.  I would then make another cut towards the grip and take out additional triangle sections.  Little piece after little piece and soon it is time for the rasp.

pete

[Rattus58]

Originally posted by 4est trekker:
 Round 11: Final Pictures and Thoughts

Here’s a couple of pictures of the finished product.  I don’t have any at full draw, but if you watched the video earlier in the thread it hasn’t changed.  It came in right at 50#@26” after shooting it in.  

 Here’s a couple of pictures with it next to my turkey hunting bow.  That bow is dyed with homegrown raspberry and blueberry juices mixed with ink and cut with denatured alcohol.  
Just a couple of final words.  I hope that at least someone has gained the confidence and enough information to get their first bow built.  It’s a cheap and easy project that you can do in a weekend.  This particular bow is overbuilt by most standards, and comes in slightly heavier in physical weight than is most efficient (I’m referring to the Mass Principle as discussed in Volume 4 of the Traditional Bowyer’s Bible).  However, the wide limbs allow more wood to do the tension work, thus adding a margin of safety that the bow will not raise a splinter and fracture. The longer length allows it to be pulled to 28”, and perhaps a bit more.   You could always narrow the limbs some and compensate by making it a touch thicker to keep the weight up.  This would reduce mass, but the further you go in this direction the more the moisture content, tiller, grain, early/late growth ratio, etc. will need to be spot on.  (That turkey bow above is 44#@26”, measures 64” ntn, and weighs 18 ounces.  It sure is nice to carry, as you hardly know it’s there.  It also shoots slightly above average in speed for its weight @ drawlength.)

At the end of the day, a bow is a bendy stick with a string.  Is this the prettiest bow?  Nope.  The fastest bow?  Nope.  But I haven’t met a turkey yet that stopped me mid-draw and begged me to shoot him with a prettier bow.  “Dead as a doornail” is dead enough for me, and if I can do it for $12 and three or four hours of work, I’m in!  

Good luck, ya’ll, and if you build one please post some pictures.  Thanks for following!  God Bless.

Question.... what happens when you have a 31" drawlength, such as I do? Is this at all a problem or, if so, is there anyway to compensate?

I loved this build_along. Thank you for you unselfishness in producing this. You have definitely given me confidence.... till the 28" thing came up....    

Much Aloha...  

[4est trekker]

Follow the same dimensions/instructions, except make the bow 72" tip to tip and follow the instructions for the shorter riser (that is, the post that describes making a 6" inch riser).  These two things will give you more working limb and a safer draw length.  Best of luck!

[Rattus58]

Thanks... I'll look for that riser post...

Much Aloha... and have a great Thanksgiving..

PS... I've looked all over for that 6" riser post (search features) and cannot find it. Any idea where it is exactly... not trying to put you to any extra but I've searched every page and can't find what I think you are pointing me to.

Again, much Aloha... Tom

 

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

Somebody asked for pics so here they are.

a couple of quick comments.  I am building this one for fun.  I decided that I was just going to build this quick like.  Well I have.  What is amazing is how nice it is coming out.  The layout was a snap and the 15/32 continuous thickness makes initial building a breeze.  I haven't gotten to the tiller tree yet but the floor tiller is SAWEEEEEET.  All in all I have to classify this bow a waste of time!    :eek:   And Why you ask?  It is such a nice bow I now want to build one and take my time on it and make it right!      

When I started I questioned the grip but said follow the plan.  The next one, and there will be a next one soon!!! will have the bulbous grip that I learned from Torges' book Hunting the Osage bow."

All in all I cant wait to finish this one and shoot it.  My plan is to back the bow with a fake snake skin print that I got from Rudder Bows or brown burlap. But then again I may go with brown paper and paint it with paleo indian style art!  Who knows.  Guess I will have to stay tuned to figure that out.

now the pics. I seem to have misplaced a couple. Sorry.

 

I just had to go with cedar for the grip.  I had it. oh well.

 

a quick rasping for the sides of the grip

 

cleaned up on the spindle sander

 

final thicknesing to 15/32 +- using scraper and caliper.

 

 


getting there!
pete

[4est trekker]

Hey, all.  If you check out page 21 there are a few pictures of some different handle designs that are more traditional/comfortable.  I will also post a few of a bow I'm making for a friend that has a nice handle design with smoother fade and handle contours.  I chose to make the fades rather blocky/stocky in this buildalong to help ensure the bow wouldn't lift a splinter near the end of the fades on the back of the bow.  This is common on pyramid bows if you're not careful.

Also, regarding the shorter 8" riser length, see page 21 as well.

   

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

I found those lost on the puter pics so here they are.  Yea it is beyond that now.  Also pics on the tillering tree.  Pulling 49# at 26" inches of pull on the long tiller string.  Going to lighten it a little.

marking the tips using a thin paper template


 

I had the thin blade on and just stayed away from the line.  Man is that cut wavy!

 

Surfoam to the rescue!

 

 

As far as the tillering,  I know what I am seeing.  I am not going to say but I do see a problem that needs to be addressed.

 

pete

[John Lipinski]

Left limb's quite stiff compared to right, and there appears to be a slight hinge forming right after the right side fade. Go slowly and make sure you're doing things right. Do you have a gizmo made?

[hova]

yeah im not really a bowyer , but i did stay at a holiday inn express last night..

i agree with john. at first i thought the right limb was shorter , but after blowing the pic up , theres a definite hinge at the fade...

a gizmo should show you not to touch that at all , and just even it out. the other limb almost looks thicker.


looks better than my pyramid though!

-hov

[K. Mogensen]

I'm gonna have to try one of these...

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

Yup.  Left limb heavy and a hinge on the right followed by a stiff spot and I think another hinge.

I have been slowly working it taking my time but the edge of the bow let go.       There was a nick and it took off.  I now have a two inch crack in one limb so it is going in the fire pile and I am going to get a new board tonight if I can find one at the home center.    :D

pete

[Pennsyltuckey pete]

Went to the Home Center to find a new board but there was none to be had.  I pulled the cracked limb board bow and decided to give it a shot.  Here is a pic of the crack.

 

What I did was fill it with super glue and then clamped the crack shut.  after allowing the glue to set for about 2 hours I pulled out some backing material.  Decided to use the burlap.  Keeping with the Tightbond III  I laid a heavy bead on the bow,  and then put the burlap on the bow and then added more glue to fill not only the thread of the burlap but also the gaps.  I like the finished look. Next step was to trim it all up after the glue had dried for 12 hours.

 

Then To test the bow I took it out and pulled it back little by little.  Finally at close to 28 inches I started letting arrows fly.  All is going well.  I then put the bow on the tiller tree and pulled it the full 29 inches that I shoot when I am collapsing my form.  The bow shoots fine.  I just have to detail the back with whatever artwork I decide on.

pete

[hova]

i like it.  happy it worked out for ya.

what did you start with , a 3/4" thick board? looks like you ended up taking a good bit off the limbs compared to the handle.


i think i may use the 4"x3/4" that i have layin around and whip one of these up . i like em more and more all the time.

-hov

[hova]

hey 4est, got out my 1x4 today and was looking it over. I drew it all up on paper and I just figured I'd get some input on the specs.

white oak.
OAL 66" (the board itself)

the bow I had drawn up is:

52" tip2tip
6" handle
2" fades
21" limbs.

I'm looking at maybe a inch or two more in length, but a knot has to be worked around . the excess will be used for tip overlays and handle area.

what is your experienced opinion? I'm mostly just comcerned with the length , of the limb and overall.

how wide do you think I should go?


thanks bud
-hov