ash billets

[bubby]

I was trimming some tree limbs and had som decent enough to split into billets. with ash should i chase a ring or back the bow? want to floor tiller and put away to dry out and need to know how to proceed

[Pat B]

Seal the ends and the back if you remove the bark. The wood directly under the bark is your back.  I would wait for the billets to cure out a bit before splicing them.
  If you mean staves instead of billets...remove the bark and seal the back and ends and as with the billets rough out the bow. You may want to clamp it to a form to prevent twisting while it is drying. You can also add a bit of reflex then too.

[bubby]

yes pat they are billets,i was going to rough them in to dry them out a little faster, should i plan on backing the bow when i do start it, they are about 32 1/2" long. will be my first bow not built from a board, just trying to get my ducks in a row. I have a 29" draw so it might just be a youth bow for someone

[Pat B]

Generally ash has relatively thick rings and is relatively strong in tension. If your back ring is sound there is no need to back the bow.    
 One thing you could do is to cut in your splices("W", "Z", etc) fit the halves together and clamp. When the billets are well dried the glue joints should mate up very well. I have never used this method but I have steamed both splice parts and clamped to insure good mating surfaces.
 I also think I would give the billets a month or so first to stabilize before reducing them to floor tiller stage.

[bubby]

thank's for the info Pat,I'll do as you say and leave them alone for a month, put them in the shop to stabilize. Does it matter if I remove the bark now or hold off till floor tillering?

[Pat B]

You want to get the bark off before you begin bending the limbs. If the bark cracks it will transfer down into the wood. You can do it after the month wait or now but be sure to seal the back as soon as you get the bark off.

[bubby]

thanks Pat, I appreciate the help.