And here we go!(First selfbow) Not Good but Not Lost

[Osagetree]

Coming along well, keep us posted on the bow.

My only advice would be to shape the tips more. When I started selfbows it took me awhile to realize the tips look strange squared off and add weight to the tips and a little more hand shock to the bow. Mine used to look just like yours. You can always play around with the tips after tillering and it wont mess up the tiller at all. Use a rasp to shape the tip like the shape of a house, with the tip of the roof being the belly side of the tip. Then, use some sand paper or a file to round off all the corners or sharp edges. Selfbows should have smooth rounded edges. That will come easier with more experience!

Good work and I'd say you'll be hooked in to selfbows for a good long while!

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Yeah Osagetree, I'm hooked already!
 I have yet to bring the tips anywhere close to shape but I will use your advice when that time comes.
 My question is how do I get the twist out of the tips? I was thinking of putting a wrench on it and clamping to remove twist with a little dry heat.
 Will that work or should steam them?

[Dano]

Dry heat will work, I usually wrap a piece of leather over the tip to protect it from the wrench. Keep in mind you will have to hold it there until it cools.

[Osagetree]

I use two squares of leather belt scrap between the jaws of a pair of vice grips. It's best to take out the twist in  several attempts along the lenght of the limb rather than trying to take it out all in one location. Study the limb, make a plan starting from the handle out and go for it,,, slowly!!

I would also consider tying to even out the reflex in the limbs as I went about removing the twist and add in a little curve to the last 8 or 10 inches towards the tips

[Osagetree]

A hear a cresent wrench works too!

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I have been give'en her the eye and ponderin' and back and forth and back and forth. any way I was thinking along the same lines as you fellers but with lack of experience I wanted to get a professional opinion.
 
 As far as going slow... that's what the first two or three staves that are firewood taught me. LOL
 
 Dano you where right.. this stave is teaching me alot. After I got out of a hurry I think I'm actually moving along pretty good I think.
 More to come....
 Kris

[George Tsoukalas]

Lookin' good, sticks! Jawge

[Stiks-n-Strings]

well I don't know how good she's looking now, you fellers tell me what you think.
 Looks to me like the left limb is heavy, and the right limb has a bit of a hinge in her.
 Do I need to place the bow on the tiller tree in the center of the bow or in the center of the grip.
 The way I have it planned out the the rest will fall 1.5" above center.I am also thinking of putting a little flpip in the tips about 3" from tip, not much though.
 I do need to get a little more Reflex/deflex in the left limb to match the left or does it look alright to guys.
 Heres a few more pics on tiller tree and unstrung profile so far. I pretty much just have it floor tillered at this point and am getting ready to start fine tuning.

first time on the long string...
 

unbraced side profile...
 

[George Tsoukalas]

Looks like you got 2 hinges starting - one on each limb. Do you see them. Mid limb on the right and a little before mid limb on the left. Mark a big X on the belly. Leave that area alone. Remove wood from above and below the hinges. Do be yankin' that stave to far until you fix them. Jawge

[Stiks-n-Strings]

now that I look at it this morning on here I do see them.
 one question I have... Both limbs have some natural twist in them. Is this gonna be a problem and if I'm thinking right do I take more off the side that is stronger to get it to correct itself when it is drawn?
Kris

[Eric Krewson]

Slight limb twist is not a problem and will mostly pull out after shooting a bow for a while.

I have not had much luck removing wood from the strong side to correct twist in osage bows. I prefer to remove severe propeller with heat before I start tillering. I use a pipe wrench(well padded) and a 5 gal bucket to put weight in while I heat the limb. I use a piece of course, cloth backed sandpaper to pad my pipe wrench jaws, non slip and won't mar the limb.

 

Have made yourself a tillering gizmo? From the hingy looks of you first bend on the long string you definitely need one.

  http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001047

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Eric, I don't have alot of real bad twist so I'm gonna just let it go.
 One of the first things I thought about when I put her on the tree the first time was one of your tillering gizmo's. I'm definitely gonna get one made before I go much further.
Thanks for all the input Guys. Keep it coming.
Kris

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Heres some more tillering pics. How does it look to guys. I think I've done all I can with a rasp and its a scraper from here on out.
 
   
 
 How do I know when it's time for the short string?

 Do I need to flip the tips now or wait until I get a little closer?

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I have decided that I am going to sinew back this bow and recurve the tips.
A few questions:
 When is it time for the short string?
When is it time to recurve the tips?
 Do I sinew before or after recurving the tips?
Thanks for all the help guys.
Kris

[George Tsoukalas]

Better. Now you need to get mid limb on - both limbs bending more. Jawge

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Thanks George.
How about the other stuff (sinew and recurved tips)?

[4est trekker]

You kinda' like this stickbow business, don't you Kris?        Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out.    

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Yeah 4est this osage is has got some kinda mystical draw that I can't pry myself away from.
 I got my board bow laid out just haven't had a chance to cut, any spare time I been working on this.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

TTT

[Pat B]

I would get both limbs bending evenly and together first before you sinew or recurve. You should recurve first before sinewing because the heat can affect the sinew and glue.
  I usually go to a short string and low(about 4") brace height when I get to about 8" of tip movement...and everything else is good.