bbo tiller ?

[AkDan]

So what happens when you during the long string tiller you've totally taken the peak or crown off, basically ending up with flat belly not to far from the fades?   does this mean I didnt take enough off the side facets originally to get it to bend?

[Dano]

yep, what size line did you scribe on the side? How far have you gone on the long string? What weight are you shooting for?

[AkDan]

Dano, I believe it was 3/8ths, these are dryad blanks. I'll have to go back and check the vid, dont remember off hand now...old age's creepn in  

[Dano]

I hear ya Bud.    

  Jason and Mike blanks are dang near done when ya get em. I think you've been on the long string too long.

[AkDan]

well you know I'm still learning to build bows LOL!   Have read more then my fare share, but putting to practice and reading well..you get the picture.  Atleast I kinda understand it LOL!

As for weight...I'm hoping for tiller more then anything. The blanks were built for 60lbs, I'll be happy with 50lbs and great tiller more then anything. I have built a couple bbhickorys that came out a 'skosh' light LOL!  So tiller is my first priority.

  I have a pile of osage slats sitting behind me after I get the dryad blanks done to build with.  Albeit slowly.  Kinda just getting back into things after a couple years of not so much fun.

[AkDan]

so whats the best move from here Dano?  Tiller from the sides till I get a radius again?  Or put in the side facets and start tillering all over?   Like I said I'm not to worried about weight as much as I am getting the tiller process down.   I'm sure I can find a home for them once they are built regardless of weight.

also, when do you narrow the tips?  Mine are kinda wide.

[DCM]

It would help to see it.  But yes, sounds like you need to take some width or side facet depending upon the ratio at the fades.  Long string will tend to result in whip tiller, so going to a braced string won't help with stiff inner limbs.  Again, hard to say without seeing it.  If you laid out 3/8" and are down to it, that's about 1:3.  You could go a smidge thinner but remember it will come to you all at once so take really small adjustments.  1/2" is already perty thin.

How wide is it?

Any deflex/reflex?

[Dano]

Leave the tips for now. I take it you did not the the dvd with the Dryad blank.  

Pictures speak a thousand words when it comes to tiller, so if you can get a picture of unbraced and on the tiller tree. How far have you pulled it on the tree, and what weight is it there? Weight on the long string is deceiving but if you've pulled it to 8 or 10" it's time for the short string.

[AkDan]

Dave,

hmm, got me a little confuzed readn that lol.  It is a R/D and she's 1 7/16ths at the fades and about 11/16ths at the grooves

Dano,  I dont know how far past brace I pulled it on the longstring.  I havent done anything to it past brace.  (still gotta sharpen a couple scrapers).   And I havent checked weight on the longstring.  

As for the video, yuppers I watched it.   I'll have to watch it again today    .   Just curious when people do it, being it seems everyone has there own method.   The tips are still full width yet.

[DCM]

Ratio refers to thickness of boo relative to core.  Osage 1:3 is fine.  Denser woods (compression resilient) can tolerate lower ratio.  Unlikey it will matter, more or less and aethetic thing.  1 7/16" might be a smidge generous.  Side facets might do the trick.  Need to see it.  Refelx/deflex bows are hard to read on the inner limb, they look stiff but might actually be moving.

Study the video.  I haven't seen it personally, but you can't do any better than advice direct from Mike and Jason.