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Author Topic: Kiln Dried?  (Read 696 times)

Offline Stiks-n-Strings

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Kiln Dried?
« on: December 18, 2009, 05:22:00 AM »
I been thinking about building a small solar kiln outside of my garage for drying Osage, Hickory, and other staves.
 Good Idea or bad Idea?
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Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2009, 08:59:00 AM »
Sure why not. But I know that BL and osage can really check wen dried to quickly. Actually, I've never forced dried either one of those. Jawge
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Offline Pat B

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2009, 09:53:00 AM »
I agree with George. Later in the drying process it will probably work quite well but early on you don't want it to get too hot or dry. It would probably work best on almost bow sized staves.
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Offline Stiks-n-Strings

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2009, 11:58:00 AM »
I was thinking along the lines of what you are guysare thinking just wanted to get some expert advice.
 I was thinking, Cut- Split Staves and seal ends and backs- let sit for a week or so then put them in to finish drying and keep an eye on them with moisture meter.
 Would that be to soon for BL or Osage?
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Offline Pat B

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2009, 12:59:00 PM »
As long as it doesn't get too hot or too dry too soon it will be fine. Under normal storage conditions your staves will be close to work by next spring. If you reduce them to floor tiller stage, much quicker.
  Indiana gets pretty dry in the winter so humidity won't be a problem.
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Offline Stiks-n-Strings

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2009, 01:10:00 PM »
Pat,
 I really don't need to go all out on a kiln of any type. I just need to get some dry as soon as I can after cutting so I can start wotking on them. I got the bug real bad LOL
 What would be the safest and most methodical way of drying them quickly as possible.
 Do you think I would better off to just floor tiller when they are a little green and let them air dry. What kind of time frame are we tallking about?
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Offline Roy Steele

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2009, 01:22:00 PM »
I've dryed hickory and o'sage in and a hot box by leaveing the lid proped up and turning the staves.Lowering the light bulb wattage.I cut the time on osage to 3 months and hickory to a few weeks on one the rest took a month or so.I slowly built the hickory as I went.So I'm sure a solor klin would work.GREAT IDEA don't know of anyone doing that for bows.
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Offline Pat B

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2009, 02:15:00 PM »
Taking them down to floor tiller stage will help them dry quicker. Depending on how wet and the type of wood you may need to clamp to a form to prevent twisting as it dries. I would start with one or two, floor tiller green(no problem of over stressing)and set them aside for a month. Once you start working on tillering you will be able to tell how dry it is by the sound and feel of the wood and whether it is crisp or sluggish when recovering from bending. If it feels sluggish give it a few more weeks.
  If all this works out, do a few more. Be sure it will work well before you commit all the staves. By next winter all your staves will be ready to work. If you rush any part of bow building you are setting yourself up for trouble.
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Offline razorsharptokill

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2009, 06:53:00 PM »
When you work a stave down to floor tiller early on, do you seal the belly also to prevent checking there?
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Offline Pat B

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2009, 08:45:00 PM »
Generally the belly doesn't check like the back will but if it does it is not as critical as the back checking. Leave the belly unsealed so the moisture has a place to escape from.
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Offline Stiks-n-Strings

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #10 on: December 19, 2009, 12:53:00 AM »
This has turned into a pretty good discussion.
 What does a fellar need to seal the backs with?
 
What really got me thinking about this is Turkey call making. I make custom turkey calls and read an article in a turkey magizine once about air drying lumber and speeding up the drying time a little with some sort of solar kiln so to speak.
 I'm sure I have it somewhere. It was talking about 8/4 lumber though. I'm very ignorant on bow making (I'm learning though) but know enough about wood working to know there is a significant difference in staves and boards.
 It was really just a thought.
 Pat the one thing I have learned the most about making bows is what you said about taking it slow, I just find myself with this overcoming urge to make some shavings. LOL
 I just need to split them and let them sit and go get some dry ones for now. Thing is, I keep seeing osage trees just begging to be turned into bows.
 Man I got it bad don't I? LOL
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Offline Tom Leemans

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #11 on: December 19, 2009, 08:46:00 AM »
You can seal it with shellac. You can buy cut shellac flakes and thin it with denatured alcohol or get it in a spray can. If your cut shellac dries out in the can, just add more thinner.
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Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2009, 09:01:00 AM »
No on the belly but you absolutely must seal the backs of BL and osage. Jawge
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Offline Tom Leemans

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Re: Kiln Dried?
« Reply #13 on: December 19, 2009, 09:21:00 AM »
Sorry, I should have mentioned to leave the belly "open".
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