Riser crack

[xtrema312]

I have a riser crack I want to fix on a bow.  Is this the place to ask, or is there a better place to post it?

[Robertfishes]

can you post pics of the riser crack?

[xtrema312]

Yes I can if this is a good place to do it.

[razorback]

This is the place. Lots of real good bowyers in these parts.

[xtrema312]

Ok a broken arrow nock caused a dry fire, and then a broken brass nock on the string cause a second one.  The riser cracked after the second.  I have tested it then continued to shoot it daily for weeks.  The crack is not growing.  It shoots fine.  The boyer tried to wick some epoxy in the crack but it didn't hold to string.  The crack looks worse in the pick with the cracked finish, but now I have it striped back down and I can hardly see it when not braced.  When braced the compression on the belly side of the riser cause the wood to slip past it's self.  The crack is only real noticeable when braced at the edge of the shelf.  I have a couple idea of how to try and get glue in the joint, but I was hopping for some expert opinions.

In the pic's I put some little arrows to show it and put some tape on the crack.  The tape shows the crack line a lot better.

 

[Holm-Made]

Brace the bow, flow runny super glue into the crack, then unbrace the bow and let dry.

If that doesn't work...It doesn't look like it would be hard to cut off the curly maple and epoxy a new piece on.  Just a thought.  How about a picture of the full riser.  

Chad

[xtrema312]

The crack only opens a hair on the edge of the shelf.  I will try to get a pic.  The rest really doesn't open.  How fine a crack can I get supper glue into?  How about flexing the riser backwards using the limb blots to open it some?  How about drilling some fine holes in the crack line to inject a very liquid glue?  I heard that some epoxy cold maybe be heated to make it real thin.

I will have to get some daylight for a good riser pic.  Anything in particular for views of the whole riser?

[Holm-Made]

You'll never get epoxy into a crack that fine.  Super glue will go right into the finest of cracks.  Do not drill holes into the crack.  

Fill the crack good with super glue, sand it smooth and finish over top.  It should be just fine as you said you have been shooting it for weeks and it hasn't changed.  The glue will seal the crack and should keep it from growing.
Chad

[xtrema312]

I will give it a try.  Are all the super glues about the same?

[Holm-Made]

Yes.  Make sure it isn't the gel formula.  Chad

[xtrema312]

Do some set-up slower than others so it has more time to work into the crack?

[Eric Krewson]

I would us a better quality super glue like Loc Tite. I use a bunch for filling cracks on selfbows. I have found the cheap stuff you find at the dollar store won't hardly stick your fingers together, Loc Tite is a different animal.

Paul Bruner has said in the past that he would only use a super glue called "Zap-A-Gap" for bows. They make all viscosities with the very thin type being the best to fill a crack. They sell this brand of superglue at hobby stores.

[Jim Curlee]

Try Loc-tite 420.
Heat with a heat gun to cure.
Jim

[Jim Curlee]

Were you running a fast flite string?
Jim

[xtrema312]

Originally posted by Jim Curlee:
Were you running a fast flite string?
Jim

Yes, D97 8 strand

[Jim Curlee]

Been a number of years now, but Traditional Bowhunter had an article on fast flight, and what it would do to your bow, after a dry fire.
No stretch, no give.
Something has to give.
I know everybody is in love with FF, but for me the life of a bow is worth more than a few feet per second, and I don't hear any difference in the noise that my bows make.
I have dry fired many a bow with dacron, doesn't make me happy, but didn't destroy my bow on the first shot. Had one last 13 dry fires once, I'm thinking that wouldn't happen with FF.
Jim

[BWD]

Maybe I've been lucky, however I have had a few dry fires with d97 and yet to break a bow. Am knocking on wood at present. lol

[CUJO]

If you don't feel safe with the super glue idea, you can cut a radius curve in it and glue in a new piece of maple with a laminate strip or two of matching woods. Just an idea if the other way don't work for you.  Either way, it can be fixed.

Marc

[xtrema312]

Thanks for all the input.  I almost think cutting and glue in new wood would be the best way to go, but I will give the glue a try.  I am going out today to see what I can find.  I got on the Zap and loctite sites today to see if I could narrow down the exact products to get.  They have a lot of stuff so I didn't get far with so many options.  I need to dig a litter deeper.

I am thinking about trying to flex the riser using the limb bots and making some kind of press.  I would like to open the crack just a hire so I can get the glue to wick in farther.  It is so tight I just don't know if it would fully penetrate or not.  I am not sure if that is a good idea, but it would seem that a slight flex would be ok.  The only problem is knowing how much flex I put into it.  I don't have any way to gauge it so maybe it would be better not to do that.

[xtrema312]

Ok so far no Loctite 420 can be found.  I also found out it is a rapid set glue.  I found a way to mildly flex the crack open a little more and I want some time to get the glue to wick into the crack from all sides. Maybe go around a couple times.  Then release the riser and clamp it for what should be an almost invisible finished product if the glue holds.  Is there something like 420 that will wick into .002 gaps, but give me a little more working time?  I don't want to have it set-up while the crack is still open.