Selfbow questions and build along

[Stiks-n-Strings]

All right here we go again!
 The last bow I was working on I kinda scewed up and will become a kids bow at some point. Oh well Learned some good stuff on that one. and done ALOT of reading since then.
 I am making a bend through the handle (C-style) on this bow and have a few questions. I am building it according to Dean Torges' book "hunting the Osage bow".
 #1 can I narrow the handle area since it will be bending?
 #2 what exactly is the difference in elliptical tiller and circular tiller? I think I have pretty good Idea but want some other opinions.

 Pics
Top limb
 

Bottom limb
 

Handle (center is laid out so bottom limb is 1.5" shorter, 4" bulbous style built up with leather handle is what I'm after)
 

 Here's some character pics
Belly
 
Back
 
 
 Bring some advice fellers

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Forgot over all specs
 Width at the handle is 1 1/8 wide same limb width tapering to 1/2 at tips 62" tip to tip. that will put me at 61 NTN so I think I might need to go an inch longer overall to 62" NTN shooting for around 45# at 28.5" give or take a few pounds heavier I figure I'll finsh tiller at least at 50# and I'll end up good when shot in.

[John Scifres]

You shouldn't really need to narrow the handle.  I never do on bendy handle bows.  You can get away with it though.

I like to carry the full width for the middle third of the overall length instead of beginning the taper right at the handle.

Your width and length are fine.

Careful with that knot.  If you take too much off it'll be weak.  If you leave too much on, it'll shock your world.  I like to follow the grain around them and then leave it pretty thick above and below the knot for an inch or so.  Mark that and make it pretty stiff on tiller but bend right up to that point really good.

I like round tiller in the center section with maybe the last 6" of the tips pretty stiff.  This keeps string angle low so it won't stack.  Make sure and narrow thos stiff tips though so the mass will be reduced.

Have fun.   Thanks for posting.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Oh Yeah John, I plan doing a leather tip over lay and the same in the handle and rest with superglue saturated into the leather and taking the tips as narrow as possible, these are just rough specs. I got a pretty good ways to go yet for all that LOL
 Thanks for the input I'll widen her out a bit for the first third of the limbs like you are saying but I think I would like to narrow the grip area a little. Maybe 1/4" or so, not to much though.
 Hoping to have me a good bow for spring turkey. We'll see what happens

[John Scifres]

Just be careful with the narrowing of the handle.  You can do a semibendy handle where there really aren't any dips but it is thicker and bends less than the rest of the bow.  That's probably safer.  1/4" means you'll have less than an inch of width.  I'd leave it be if it were me.  Most of my rigid handle are wider than 1-1/8" anyways.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Sounds like I better just leave it, When you put that way.
Thanks John I appreciate the honesty.
What part of Indiana do you live in?

 Kris

[John Scifres]

Southside of Indy.  Go Colts!  If you feel like driving, there is a trad bunny hunt at Atterbury this Friday and Saturday.  I'll have a bendy handle recurve I'm working on that sounds a lot like your bow.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Got a bum knee or I would be all over the bunny hunt, I got some good hounds that push a bunny just enough to keep it moving so you can thump it when it comes back around.
Good times right there
   

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Got some new pics here. I got it floor tillered and put it on the long string. Need to start creeping up on my tiller now.
 Got all the punky stuff cleaved out of the knot and ended up with a little whole in the limb.   :D  
 
 I decided not to bend all the way through the handle but I'm gonna take it right up to the handle with in an inch on top and bottom.

 Something about them holey bows that get's me pumped up.

 Belly of knot
 

 Back of knot
 

 unstrung profile, I put a little reflex in it with a heat gun and a caul.
 

 First trip to the tiller stick. I need to get me one of them pulley trees built.
 

[Pat B]

Looking good so far. John gives good advice!  
  When I'm making selfbows I leave the handle area and the tips wide at least until first brace. That way if the string doesn't track right small adjustments can be made by removing wood from one side or the other of both the handle and/or tips. Also if you leave the tips thicker you will be able to reduce the width later without loosing strength in them but you can reduce the physical weight whick will reduce hand shock. The thickness can also be reduced some after that so they just begin to bend at full draw, reducing even more physical weight.