TG bow trade

[4est trekker]

Ranger 3: You've been busy!  Got a head start on me, that's for sure.       Couple of things I noticed:

1) You've got a hinge waiting to happen on the left limb in the picture right at the knot on the side of the limb.  Also, right limb is bending a little too much in relation to the rest of the limb in the same region.

2) Get a lot more of those limbs bending in the inner thirds near the fades.  Don't pull it past your draw weight and/or beyond where the tiller starts to suffer or you'll get undue set (or worse).

Just my two cents worth.  Keep the shavings flyin'!

[b.glass]

Looking good gentlemen. The lady has a couple of immediate opptions that I'm trying to decide on. A pignut hickory self bow that is at the floor tillering stage that has been heat tempered but has a propellor twist. Or a bamboo backed osage bow already glued up and shaped with a little reflex.
I think I will try to finish them both and see which one ends up best.

The hickory stave got its twist from being rough out while still green. I tried to use a heat gun to get the twist out last summer with out success. Any suggestions?

[Pat B]

Bona, you can tiller the twist out or if not too much just work with it.

[NightHawk]

maybe steam it?

[NightHawk]

maybe steam it?

[Swissbow]

I love those osage staves you have here guys. Some nice twist and knots in it. I bet the fellows that are gonna get them will be very happy.

----------
Andy

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I bet they will Swissbow. Glad you like 'em    

[John Scifres]

Here's the stave I'm starting with.  Got a little bend to it eh?  

 

Rings are sketchy up top but nice in the center.
       

Got a knot a little off center.
   

First step is to use the bandsaw to get closer to the good rings.  Gonna have to leave some of the thickness in the handle though.
   

[John Scifres]

Next up, chasing a ring.  This is Emily, my 14 year old daughter helping out.  She's a natural at this. She needs some shop fashion help though.  She first walked out in a faux fur coat and those dangly earrings.  

 
   

Here's the ramp up to the extra thickness on the top of the handle with the knot and its relation to center.  It'll be in one of the fades but in a non-bending part of the bow.

   

Here it is with the ring all chased out and limbs thinned enough to heatbend.

   

[John Scifres]

Here it is clamped upside down in my caul before heat.  
 

And then after.
   

Added a bit of reflex.

   

And corrected most of the side-to-side.  Notice the bulge in the handle and the ring I chose.

   

   

Here's the remaining part of that knot.  It'll be just a dark spot when I do the final shaping on the handle.

   

[Pat B]

Nice John. It's good to have shop help too.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I never even thought about that on a handle John, Thanks for the tip.

[scottm]

Neat handle idea John!

[Pat B]

I have done as John did by leaving a ring or two on the back of the handle to fill it out and it worked well. Be sure your bow doesn't bend in the handle if you do this because these layers can pop off. I had it happen on a bow and fortunately caught it in time before more damage was done. I removed the delaminating layers from the handle and added leather for the same purpose, to fill out the back of the handle.

[bowur]

All those bows so far are lookin really nice. I just got mine started and planned out today. Its gonna be a hickory backed ipe R/D with a hickory powerlam, curly maple and purple heart riser, and purple heart tips. the ipe-hickory-purple heart contrast looks really nice on my other bows ive made. will post some pics soon.

[razorback]

Guys, I am planning on using a 1/4 sawn osage slat. Should I chase rings to get the side profile or just cut the shape out using the best area of the wood. I will back it with bamboo and add a piece of osage for the handle. Also how thick should the osage be. The slat is 1 3/4" wide and 11/16" thick.

[Pat B]

Razor, you could reduce the width to 1 1/4" to
1 3/8". I'd leave the thickness as is and pre tiller the osage slat so you get a smooth even bend with 4" to 6" of tip movement in both limbs then glue it up in about 3" of Perry reflex.
62" to 66" for a 28" draw.

[razorback]

Thanks Pat. Thats kind of what I was thinking. How would 1 3/8" width for 16-18" tapered to 1/2-3/8" nocks work, or should I leave it full width and just tiller to get smooth bend.

[Pat B]

I would take it to 1 3/8" for 6" to 8" then a straight taper to 1/2" tips and reduce the tips to 3/8" or less later. Also give it a slightly radiused belly too.

[John Scifres]

I agree.