Started off good, But

[Pete W]

I received a stave split from Hickory that was already roughed out, but not floor tillered yet. The handle was cut in so I had little choices to go with. The stave had 2 1/2" reflex on 1 end and 3 1/2 on the other, the handle location made it an "A" symetrical bow the way it was laid out so I had a longer top limb by almost 3".
I began tillering and shaping untill I had an even tillered bow drawing about 50#. It shot good, no hand shock , so I decided it was time to put on the finish.
 Now I shoot it some more and the tiller goes out , and it is now 3/4" pos on the top limb. The reflex it had is now even top and bottom at about 1 1/2" so that is good.
I am not to sure how to go about fixing it and have just let it sit while I weigh some options.
 If I just re tiller it to be even again I loose a lot of weight in the process, and there would be no need for the longer top limb with the reflex now being equal.

Should I shorten the top limb to make the bow equal length limbs and re tiller from there? I suspect that shortening the limb will salvage some weight that I will loose in re tillering?

Just guessing but I think the reason I lost so much reflex and went out of tiller so bad is I didn't exercise the bow enough during tillering.
Now I know better. Don't rush it.
 I assume that what ever way I go I need to start with a short draw and exercise it lots as I proceed to 28".
 Any insight would be apreciated.

 Pete

[formerbutcher]

Pete how long is this bow ?

[Pat B]

Pete you can shorten up the longer limb to be the same as the other. It will increase draw weight but after re-tillering you may be right where you are now. Once that is done and the bow is re-tillered put it on a form and temper the belly. This will increase the compression strength, increase the draw weight some and help it to hold the reflex you add during the tempering. All of this together should give you a higher draw weight when completed but none of them are miracle workers.

[Pete W]

The bow is 66" now, and I draw just over 27"  so I think/hope It will be ok after the cut.
 If I end up anywhere over 40# I am happy but closer to 50 is better.
Pat,  How do I temper it ? Heat gun? hot iron?

Every bow has been a learning experience, I just hope I live long enough to be good at making self bows.This is #5 and 4 of them are still alive!

 Thanks
Pete

[Jesse Peltan]

I'd cut the top limb down 1in.  You shouldn't have to retiller it then.  I've always used a heat gun for tempering but a hot iron might work.  
I'd add a little reflex, temper, and cut the top limb down 1in.  There should be very little retillering.  The bow should end up heavier with a better tiller this way.

[Pat B]

Pete, I clamp the bow to a form, belly up, and start at the handle and work out the limb. Heat the wood with a heat gun until it begins to scorch. Allow it to darken(I like chocolate brown) but not burn as it darkens, move out the limb a little at a time until it is completely toasted. Leave it in the form over night and do the other limb tomorrow. Give the tempered bow a week or two to re-hydrate before stressing it.

[Art B]

Pete, just wrap a wedge of wood on the back of the bow tip for a temporary string nock to help determine how much to shorten the upper limb.

Most of us can benefit from at least a 1" longer upper limb because of how we grip our bows so if'n you started out with the 3" you mentioned then you have plenty of room to play with. Good luck...........ART

[Pete W]

Thanks guys, I have a direction now. I will let you know the outcome.

 Pete

[walkabout]

if all else fails and you lose some weight you could probably add a backing strip to it, regain a lil weight and maybe help even some of it out. i dont think taking an inch off should hurt too much, ive seen bows built shorter. hickory is pretty forgiving from what i know of.

[walkabout]

come to think of it you could use the backing to glue some of the reflez back into the limb if it doesnt come back by other means