Bowyers needed for build along FINISHED thanks all

[Todd Alexander]

Awesome Job so far my friend.  Where do I put my order in at?  We couldn't be more proud of ya back in PA. We're anxiously awaiting the next pics.

[Joshua Lee]

Got the bow cleaned up and I'm working on cutting out the limbs.  I'm using the bingham's diagrams and call me crazy but I can't... how do I put this.. shoulld the upper and lower limb be symmetrical and should the left and right side of the limbs be symmetrical?  The binghams diagrams are a little asymmetrical.  Any suggestions? Also here's a peek under the tape.
Josh
 

[Jason Scott]

I make mine symmetrical. Both limbs are identical. Then I file the string groves and brace it. Take tiller dimensions and choose a top limb and then mark the shelf and handle. As far as left and right side of limbs being symmetrical, I run a string down the center of the bow through the riser and tips and make the left and right side of the limbs symmetrical.

[Joshua Lee]

Thanks again Jason
That lamination file you sent me is awesome.  I will definitely be using it in the future.  I assumed that everything should be symmetrical but was having difficulty matching up the bingham limbs.  I'm going to use one of their limbs for both. Or at least that's what I'm attempting currently. Thanks

[Jason Scott]

Before you brace the bow make sure you round the corners just a little with sandpaper. If you don't it could spring a splinter of glass that will keep running and you will not be able to fix it.

[Swissbow]

Man the fades on your riser are looking great ! Very nice job so far.

I do the same way as Jason. I cut out both limbs identic, file the string grooves and string the bow. After the tiller is the way I want it I mark the grip and the shelf and cut it out. This way you can adjust the shelf exactly to the string.

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Andy

[Joshua Lee]

Ok, Here goes. I have cut out forms for the limbs multiple times now.  Each time the form didn't seem right so I sanded and sanded until the form was to small.  So here what I figured out.  The bingham blueprint is not symetrical for sure,, here is a picture. I drew a center line down the middle and you can see the left side is almost 1/8" larger. I would think that would be a considerable difference. Ignore the line on the right.  
   

So I'm at a loss, I'm trying to draw something on microsoft publisher using elongated ovals.  When I do this I make the center of the oval an inch and a half wide out to nothing at 35 or 36 inches.  Although this pattern is perfectly symmetrical I'm not sure where taper in the limbs should begin and if it is meant to have a consistent taper all the way to the tip.  So If anyone has some advice I would greatly appreciate it, or if anyone know where I could find a nice pattern for a 68" longbow that would be nice too.
Thanks
Josh
Also here's a nice pic of the back of the bow.
   

[Joshua Lee]

Sorry I may be documenting to much.  When I made the center line I just used the end of the diagram (which makes sense right?). Turns out the form is a little off at the center of the bow and if I just use the part beginning at the end of the riser fade the pattern centers up nicely.  So, is this approach acceptable and can I trim out the riser part to my liking?

[TradBowyer]

I went and got a piece of 72" clear flexible pexiglass and drew my bow pattern on it and cut it out. When I take my bow out of the press, I don't draw a centerline or anything. I put this pattern right on the back of the bow, secure with spring clamps and trace the pattern. This way I am guaranteed to get a straight bow even if my form is warped a tad.

It is imperative that your limb widths are equidistant to the centerline or you will get twist in your limb. Not so critical for hill type longbows since the limbs are thicker but its good building practice. Your doing great. My first bow was a T/D recurve and it turned out so bad I couldn't even shoot it

TIM

[Joshua Lee]

Man I'm nervous, I about to string her up.  I brought the bow inside to warm it up. Wish me luck

[rbdover]

Good luck Josh!

[Apex Predator]

I'm excited for you Joshua!  Great job so far.

[eman614]

looking good.     did you get her strung up yet? can't wait for more.

[Todd Alexander]

The suspense is killing us!

[jsweka]

OK Josh - It's been almost 24 hours since you posted that you were "about to string her up".

Maybe you're so into finishing it up you don't have time for us knuckleheads sitting infront of our computers.  I don't blame you....

Let's see some pics.

[Joshua Lee]

Sorry for the wait folks,, I got a little carried away with the project and forgot about the computer end.  So she strung up nicely.  At first, I thought I had a horrible limb twist and then I closed the other eye,,(do not test limb twist with both eyes open, it will scare the crap out of you).  At this point the bow feels a little heavy, maybe 65 or so.  I put a fishing scale on the bow pulled to 18 inches and it read 40#s,, so 10 times 3 .. 70lbs at 28?  I better hit the gym if that's right. Anyway, here's some pics.  The first pic has some photos to taunt my good friend Todd.  Earlier this week he mocked me for having my wife in my avatar.  So there is a few photos of her and I below the bow.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone for getting me this far.  Tomorrow I will be carving out the shelf.  This plan is to go 1 3/4" above center unless someone has a better suggestion.

[chowhound]

Looks great!  Great job using the Tradgang to guide you along the way.  You're impressing the vets and inspiring the greenhorns.

I suspect the hunting gods are so pleased, that monster bull elk may kneel down in front of you this fall.

Finish Strong.

[jsweka]

Looking good Josh!

That osage looks nice and will get better with time.

I'll bet you're already starting to plan the next one.

[OH Longbow]

Great looking bow!  I can't wait to see the finished pictures.

You mentioned that you had trouble with the riser sliding around during the glue up.  This used to drive me crazy.  I now drill 1/4" hole in the center of my form, about a half inch in depth.  I then drill a corresponding hole through the laminations and into the back of the riser.  I insert a small piece of 1/4" dowel rod in the form.  As I then lay each lamination over the dowel as I am building the bow.  It holds it in place nicely.  You want to make sure the hole is clean an dry before putting the dowel in.  If not, you can glue your bow to the form.  It just makes it a little tougher separating the bow from the form.  When you take your bow off, just saw and/or sand the dowel flush.  After that, I just put an accent piece over the dowel so, it can't be seen.

I did something similar to this in my most recent recurve build.  Due to the way the recurve sits in the form, the hole is drilled in belly side of the riser.  Here is a link to the page.

    http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001870    

Once again, Great Bow!

John

[Swissbow]

That bow just looks GRRRRREAT !

I always put a clamp over the riser as soon as I glue it to the bow. If you don't tighten the clamp to much you can slide around all the parts until they are exactly where you want them. Then you can carefully tighten the clamp and you don't have to worry about something moving around.

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Andy