Rainy day buildalong PICS 1 done!

[DEATHMASTER]

I like that gray for the lams.

Keep the pictures coming.

Tim

[bjansen]

Sweet lams Kenny. I recieved the grey anglecut order in the mail today and I am impressed!

[Swissbow]

Kenny, those risers and the anglecut lams look great. I wonder how some green mountain camo or desert camo angelcut lams look like. I don't want to wish less work for you, but on the other hand I'd love to see some new pictures of these two bows.

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Andy

[SoNevada Archer]

Lookin good so far!

[kennym]

OK, we've cut the belly ramps and are ready to sand them. I use a known square backer block and a spindle sander. Also I mark 1" and 2" on both sides on each fade. Then I can use my dial calipers to check thickness. Usually go paper thin at end,.064"(1/16") at one inch from end, and .140"(fuzz over 1/8")at 2" from end of fade.

 
This isn't ground yet,will do that right before glueup. Maybe I won't knock a corner off!


Next,wax the heck outta the form,I used silicone spray last time with poor results! The glue escapees stuck pretty tight!

 

I only wax the bottom half every time,the glue doesn't get on the top of my form(much).


Thats all til Fri,went to a 3D today!!

[Over&Under]

Kenny

Those lams turned out awesome!! Looking forward to the rest!

[Moen]

Very nice. Homemade actionwood, Kenny?

[timbuckII]

Friday, Wow, this is like the old days going to a movie and having to go back next week to see more. This is Great keep and just like the movies I’ll be back for more.

TBKII

[Dmaxshawn]

Kenny whoever gets that one is a really really lucky person.  Man those are totally awesome.  

Shawn

[kennym]

Thanks!

Nope on homemade , the actionwood is what I sell on my website,charcoal gray and nutmeg brown.

SSHHHhh,the bow will be my bro's. He just doesn't know it yet.    

I designed it shorter for shorter draw length to wring a bit more performance out for him. In fact the test bow template says John's bow right on it!!   :cool:

[bjansen]

Hes going to like that one Kenny.  Its looking sharp.

[kennym]

Hey Brad,the only bad thing is you are gonna see your gray anglecut lams before I get to see these!! LOL

 Got any pics yet?

[bjansen]

I just glued that baby up...I started a post but I dont have any pics of the lams under the glass...but I have to tell you they look sweet.

[kennym]

Alrighty then!!

Did I tell you I build bows out of scraps? Here is some glass that was cracked when it came in. Can't sell it,but can cut out the bad and use it!

 

My handydandy cutoff tool...

 

My jig and results of skiving lams for the back . .

 

Here I lay a 1/4x 1.5 aluminum stock on the edge of bench. Then lay a small pc of plastic at skive joint.

Now lay one lam to be glued on top of plastic and clamp about in the middle along with the straitedge. Apply superglue to both pcs,flip the plastic over,lay that little block on top,check for full length straitness,and clamp the whole thing to the bench.

When you glue both pcs,you have a bit of time to adjust,then let it set for 20 min or so..

 


A good way to sand the skive joint,a radiused block with 50 grit taped on it,and the finished lam...

 

[kennym]

Here is the .002 taper that goes on the back also,my thumb is at one end of the joint,you can faintly see the other end on the flat side of the lam. I also mark center on the edge of the back glass and both back lams for alignment during glueup.(no pic but you get the idea!)

   

Now the stop block that goes on the riser to keep the belly lams from sliding up the ramps,here we cut to length...

   

Got it beveled,then grind to thickness of both belly lams and glass,2 dabs of CA(superglue)and set a few min.,good to go....

   

The parts all laid in order,notice the 3 full length lams laid out,glass rough side up and taped on smooth side.
Next lam,side that shows goes up,then .002 taper beside that.

I will glue this side of all 3 surfaces,then flip the veneer that shows over on the glassand glue the other side.

Then flip the taper onto the stack and glue the 2nd side of it.

Now lay this mess on the form.

   


Here is the plastic dixie cuos with glue ready to mix. Mix it good,then mix a bit more. Make sure to scrape the bottom and sides and the mix stick.

   


My glue was a bit warm,I had it in the hotbox for a little while with the lid open 3", was a bit warm,was gettin sticky by the time I was done gluing solo!!

Note the wedges, my powerlam/tip wedge with .001 taper lams were .140 at butt. I usually parallel them down to about .075at butt because the only part doing any work is from the last 2" of riser out.

Also note I remembered to scrape the excess glue down on the plastic wrap,where you can just tear it off without having to grind it all off!!

   

Here is my setup to keep the riser section from getting too hot. I unscrew the 2 center bulbs and lay a scrap of plywood on top of form in center to block direct heat...

 

[bjansen]

Looking good kenny and an excellent build along.

[scottm]

Very nice build along Kenny!Im enjoying it very much!

[Swissbow]

Very cool stuff here ! That riser piece looks fantastic, even though it's not finished yet. Can't wait to see it with the finish on it. I'll be back next friday for more.

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Andy

[kennym]

Thanks guys, I feel like I'm repeating on these builds. Maybe I get something once in awhile that could help someone down the road.


Here is the beast out of the form.

 

All cleaned up,I grind the boogers off both sides and try to get one pretty much clean. Then thru the widebelt,I am spoiled by this machine.

 

Here I lay out the length on the back, a 60"er ,so 30" each way from center...

 

Now I mark center of limbs at nocks and exact center both ways at riser,then laser it....

 

[kennym]

I still check with the string also,in case the laser is crooked!

 


Now I mark center down the entire bow,then square a line across the limbs 2" outside the fades. I check off centerline to find the smallest measurement here,and mark the other 3 the same. Now we know the width of the final product.

Now I go to the nock mark and measure 5/16" off center each way to make a 5/8" wide limb at nock.

Then connect these marks to get limb taper.

 


Here the limb is laid out,ready to grind!