Mark,
My hot box gets about 120 unless the shop gets really cold overnight. I put bows in 8 hours (or over night, whichever) then shut the box off and let everything cool down slowly.
As far as Tightbond goes, it is a little slipperier and can let things move around if the bow is not wraped tight or bound to the form snuggly. If I use TB I go with the TB1.
I read somewhere (may have been written by Torges) that the only difference between TB1, TB2 and TB3 is its waterproofness. The article said that the additives make the glue less strong. It went on to say that if you're gonna put a weatherproof coating on the bow (poly- or the like) waterproof glue is a moot point and why sacrifice glue effectiveness for a waterproof quality you don't really need. Besides, the TB1 is usually cheaper.
I use the Smooth-on because I can doulble the Part-A to Part-B and get a little more heat resistantance for when I shoot in the 110 degrees of an Oklahoma summer. May not matter but haven't had one come apart yet.
Used to use Urac, but I'm not big on the glue line it leaves. May have been my own lack of skill (probably), but using the toothing plane left tooth markes at the end of riser laminations that I could never figure out how to get rid of. The Smooth-on seems as fool proof as anything. Then again you know how ingenious us fools can be.
OkKeith