Ferret,
I let ya down and didn't take pics of the fade grinding. So I have to go back to a previous build and show ya. First, Credit needs to be given where credit is due. Cutting the fades used to be one of those things that I found difficult until Apex Predator showed me how. IT is easy now!
The entire trick is to back the riser block with a solid piece of wood. IT makes it easy. And again I thank Apex for sharing.
I can make it thin enough that light shines through the wood.
After the block is to this level it is toothed on the belly and then set aside to prep for the dry run and glue up. Dry run and Glue up is a process that I use a check list on because if you forget one thing you are screwed.
DO NOT ASK HOW I KNOW THIS!!!!! Ok you can ask but I am likely to not answer you!
First process in the dry run/glue up is to prep the press. Here my bow form is ready for the glue up. FIrst thing I do is wax the form anywhere within 5 inches of the gluing surface. I then put plastic wrap over the glue surface and hold it in place with masking tape. Then I attache the eccentric washers. In this pic you can see the tape that I put in place to make the form light tight to the riser block.
The eccentric washers are used to keep everything lined up on the form. OF all the tricks I have learned this one is one I consider a requirement.
Then I begin laying out all of the supplies I will need. Paper towel, Rubber bands or air hose and air pump, strapping tape, Clear plastic wrap, glue cups, mixing sticks, nitrile gloves a box of them, alcohol, scisors,... This list goes on!
A dry run is then done to make sure that every thing fits together and works. I have to admit something here. I do not do a full dry run. I have built a fair number of bows and now know where things go wrong. I do put all parts on the form but do not attach all the bands. I also do not glue the back laminations together until I am ready to do the glue up because they break apart under the stress. I will explain this later. That is all for now...
pete