handshock and tiller go hand in hand. but for imagining a proper tiller for your bow, you have to look at it's front profile and the LEVERAGE!!.
I'll give a try to explain how I mean leverage;
Imagine a bow that bends evenly throughout it's whole length. Since the lever gets bigger and bigger the closer you get to the handle, the more wood you need there. and on the tips would be very, very little wood required right?
a good example for this would be a pyramid bow, with 3" wide limbs at the fades to 1/4"wide nocks. A good tiller would be a circular one
now, imagine you have a bow with an almost PARALEL front profile. Since the leverage is the biggest close to the handle, that will be the most stressed part, if it has an circular tiller. A slowly increasing bend would be ideal; less bend close to the handle,were the leverage is big, more bend close to the tips were the leverage is small. this would evenly distribute the strain. Such an increasing bend is called an elliptic tiller.
so, the more
pyramidal your frontprofile is, the more
circular your tiller should be.
the more
parralel your frontprofile is, the more
elliptical the tiller should be.
what has this to do with handshock?
well, if this would be applied correctly, your 1" wide tips would have to move ALOT to do their share
and that would be impractical; the direction of the limbmovement would be affected and create stack. but that's another story.
if you narrow your tips, your tiller would suit your bow better, and less wood would travel the same distance. less energy would be lost, less energy would be put into crunching your hand.
Nick