60" Osage, max draw length?

[razorsharptokill]

I have an Osage bow tillered to long string. Right now it is 25lbs at 12" of draw. Can it be tillered to 28" of draw? It has two cracks that run off of one side that I have drilled small holes in and filled with CA glue and shaved down tooth pick in three spots. Should I back it before going any further? The cracks run from the edge into the belly.

Right now it is a stiff handled bow.

[Pat B]

Jim, is this a board or stave? Can you show pics of the cracks?
  You can easily get 28" on a 60" osage bow. Bring the bend right to the handle or even where you barely feel the handle give at full draw. The more working limb means better distribution of stress when drawn.
  If you are 12" on a long string get it on a short string at 4" brace and complete your tillering with the short string.

[DVSHUNTER]

jim, 60in. long will make a bow drawing 28. Go slow with the tiller and the osage should handle it. Pictures would help with the cracks, but it sounds like you already have them figured out. If the cracks run out on the back, you may be best off to just make a new one, but if the back is clean like the one I just posted, then I would give it a shot. I usually do not back my bows, but if it is something that would make you feel safer then go for it. Like pat said, pictures would help.

[Eric Krewson]

Drilling holes at the end of cracks to stop them is a bad idea and may create more problems, filling them with superglue is a good idea.

[Jeremy]

Originally posted by Eric Krewson:
Drilling holes at the end of cracks to stop them is a bad idea and may create more problems, filling them with superglue is a good idea.

That needs to be said more often!

[DVSHUNTER]

I though that drilling holes and replacing was called a dutchmen's plug and was an accepted way to fix knots? Why wouldn't that fix a small crack as well_ as long as the plug covers the bad spot? Is this a fix that only works for knots? I have never drilled into a bow, and honestly I probably never will, I was just wondering if it was still done?

[Pat B]

Drilling is not necessary and like Eric said can cause problems. Super glue in the cracks should suffice. If the cracks run off the edge, I would back the stave with rawhide, silk, linen of decrown and add a wood backing.
  Without seeing the cracks(checks?) it is hard to say.

[John Scifres]

A sound 60" stave could easily make 28" draw.  One with issues may or may not.  I'd say you are likely pushing your luck with any cracks that run off the side in a bending area, regardless of the draw length.  I'd have to see it though.

[Cherry Tree]

Pictures would help! but i wouldnt drill the holes!

[razorsharptokill]

I'll get some pics and post them. Thanks for the advice guys.

[razorsharptokill]

Worst one but it doesn't make it to the back. I think I'll rawhide back it before I go any further.
 

[shamus]

For a stiff-handled bow with a 60” length, the maximum draw length would be about 25-26”. A 64-66” length would be ideal for a 28” draw. Make the bow bend through then handle and you would be good for 28”.

But these are just rules of thumb, and the limits can be pushed.   I have stiff-handled osage bow that draws 50#@30” and it’s 64” long.   But that stave was  clean, straight, and a very good piece of Osage to begin with.

[walkabout]

i usually soak cracks in superglue and wrap roughly 1/4 inch on either side of them with B50, art. sinew or something else. ive even used wool yarn. then i tiller as i normally would, obviously avoiding those areas. my last bow is a 60" red oak bend through handle,developed a crack and i addressed it as i normally do and it turned out great, made it to 50#@27"

[John Scifres]

I'd wrap that one with sinew.  Make the bow bend in the handle and you might get away with it.