backing changing draw weight

[wharvey]

Have kind of a dumb question but:

About a year ago I built a red oak board bow and really missed the draw weight. I was trying for about 35 lbs at 28 inches but due to impatience and total lack of experience, by the time I got the tiller looking fairly good I was down to a bit under 20 lbs.  

If I sand the cloth backing off and glue on a bamboo backing, (or possibly hickory), will it bring my draw weight up to between 25 & 30 lbs. Also is this feasible and if so which would be best, bamboo or hickory. I never finished the riser section so there will be no problem there.  

Reason I'm asking is that I'd like to turn in into a "target" bow for my wife to shoot in the back yard.

Thanks in advance,

Bill

[walkabout]

theres really no set weight for target bows, as a matter of fact most people shoot lighter bows better due to  less strain during draw and hold. a fellow tradganger actually builds the majority of his bows at about 20# and under and he shoots in 3d shoots alot with them and does very well.his tag on here is dick in seattle, heres a link to his site.  http://oldpharttsarchery.com/   i think though if your wife can shoot the bow as is well then leave it as is, maybe even just build another, pyramid bows are easy and can be made fairly quickly.

[Jason Jelinek]

A hickory backing would be the easiest if you have a board bow.  The mating surfaces are already there, with bamboo you would have to grind down the bamboo to get it flat.

[JamesV]

Bill, when you add thickness to the limb you add weight. 1/8" hickory backing would be easiest. If you were closer I could grind you a hickory backing or a bamboo backing strip

[red hill]

JamesV, how do you "grind" a backing? Do you use a planer?
Stan

[wharvey]

Thanks for the info. I should probably scrape this and do another but since all I need is 5 or 10 lbs I figure it is doable. Will probably go with hickory.

I wonder if titebond would do it since it is a wood to wood bonding? I'd prefer that over going to urac.

[JamesV]

Red Hill

I use my planer to cut a taper. Built a sled that is adjustable from .002-.010 per inch. When I build a bow that is to have a backing I pre-taper the core. Almost no tillering needed to acheive the desired weight.

[walkabout]

titebond is fine for gluing on backings

[George Tsoukalas]

By the time you do all that you can make 2 board bows and learn a whole lot more. Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/