hickory selfbow dimensions

[walkabout]

working on a hickory stave i recently acquired, and right now im in the process of roughing it out so it will dry quicker. wondering what layout is best suited for hickory. i read that 1 3/4" limbs at the fades is a good width for a bow of 55#+, i was thinking pyramid taper to 1/2" nocks. would this be ok or should i keep full width to past midlimb then taper to the string grooves?

[George Tsoukalas]

1 3/4-2 in is good. Whether you make a pyramid or full width to just past mid limb is up to you. Jawge

[walkabout]

thanks george for the reply. i usually make my bows with full width to an inch or so past midlimb, then taper from there, but figured it might be easier to use pyramid profile. since the pyramid profile dictates consistent thickness it may make things easier for me during tillering.

[Steve B.]

Depends how long it will be too.  I'd keep it at least 2" wide.  
I recently made bows from hickory and oak.  The hickory took a set and I'd wish'd I'd made it wider now.
The oak I did make wider and it wants to set but springs back to straight after shooting so I feel it is border line at 2".

Another point.  I too roughed the oak stave before it was dry and it checked in many places.  I had to do a lot of gluing and then backed it with bark just for an excuse to have to back it with glue also.  So it is relatively sluggish with all that bark and glue.

So I would be careful about roughing in order to dry quicker.  Hope that helps.

sb

[walkabout]

thanks for the heads up. i think i can get 2" wide out of this stave, although i may have to re center my layout to avoid a few knots. id normally work the knots into the bow for character, but this is  new territory so i want to make it as fool proof as possible. the other stave i cut has quite a bit of character though, so ill have another one to work on too when its good and seasoned.

[Mark Smeltzer]

I didn't see where you said what length of bow you wanted.  That will help you determine the width.  I make mine 1 1/2 wide around 62-63 inches long for a 26" draw. I like em around 55lbs.
Also make sure the moisture content in hickory stays lows.  That can account for set and a sluggish bow.
I also like to heat treat hickory.  
Just my two cents.

Mark

[walkabout]

this one is going to be around 68-70", id like to get 50-55#@28" with it, preferably 55# because the more i shoot the heavier weights just pull easier.my heaviest bow right now is 50# and im very comfortable shooting it so id like to up the weight a bit with my next one.

[Mark Smeltzer]

At 68" to 70" long you should be easily be able to to go 1 1/2' wide.
Remember too that with Hickory low moisture is key.

I also heat treat some/most of my hickory bows.  They are some of the fastest, best shooting bow I've made.
JMHO

Mark

[walkabout]

im going to try for 1 3/4" wide and go from there, maybe halfway through tillering ill thin it to take the weight down rather than scraping the belly for all my tillering. im wondering though how important it is with hickory to follow vertical grain when laying out the bow, i know hickory is tough but want to be sure this bow makes it to finish.

[Rain Man]

Vertical Grain  

I asked about vertical grain last month.  It sounds like you should follow it to be sure you have a successful bow.  But if you want to take the chance and not follow it, you still may be able to pull it off.  When I start dipping into my staves, I know I'm going to follow it.

[George Tsoukalas]

One should a;ways follow the lateral or vertical grain. Info on my site. Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/layout.html

[walkabout]

thnks for the replies. i was looking over your site today george because i remembered one topic posted specifically about that, found it earlier today. im going to follow the grain, hopefully i can find a grain line pronounced enough to follow.lol