How much reflex in an osage board?

[razorsharptokill]

I'm doing a hickory backed osage board longbow. How much reflex is recommended and how far down the limb should I start? Should I heat temper it?

[Pat B]

Jim, on the hickory backed osage bows I built I put in about 3"- 3 1/2" of reflex from handle to tip. I pre tillered the osage first so it would bend in a nice even bend so after glue up I had a nice even bend to the bow. I usually ended up with about 1" of reflex or flat after shot in. If you try to add much more reflex you'll usually end up with more set.

[red hill]

Pat, did you tiller the osage before adding the hickory?  
Jim, how wide is your osage bow?
Stan

[razorsharptokill]

1 3/4"

[razorsharptokill]

How much if I was using boo?

[Pat B]

Jim, You can do 1 3/8" from the fades out 6" to 8" on osage with a hickory backing. Taper from there to 1/2" tips for now. When everything is lined up, reduce to 3/8" or less. What length are you working with and what is your draw length?
  Stan, I tillered it to bend evenly but not a final tiller for bend and weight. I guess you can get the same effect by tapering the belly with a band saw first. I prefer to use a rasp and scraper.

[razorsharptokill]

28" draw and 64" ntn. Would like 50lbs @28"

[Pat B]

Perfect. You will love the way it shoots. Make it 1 3/8" wide at the fades and out 6"to 8" then taper to the tips. You could go more than 50# if you wanted.

[Osagetree]

Jim, can I ask where you got your osage board? I have some hickory backing and would like to use it up.

[razorsharptokill]

Thanks Pat.

Osage, I use a sawmill in Salina Oklahoma that specializes in hardwoods found here in Oklahoma. It is called Grandriver Hardwoods. He's not doing any internet business for a while but I could go up there and pick you out a board on any Friday if you want.

[red hill]

Thanks, Pat.  Good luck, Jim.  Sounds like we're working on a similar project.  
Stan

[Roy from Pa]

If you try to add much more reflex you'll usually end up with more set.  

Why is that Pat?

[Pat B]

Roy, it over stresses the wood. You are stretching the backing and compression the belly just to bring the bow to a flat profile and even more getting to brace. So by the time you get it to full draw the wood is really stressed and, because it is a natural material it has limits. For a typical hunting weight bow it is not necessary to add more reflex.You will get better performance from the proper design for the woods used and good tillering.
  With a lot of reflex the stave is unstable to work on too. The sideways leverage can lead to twisting and adds an uncertain element to early tillering.

[Roy from Pa]

Ok thanks Pat.

[red hill]

Jim, How's this osage bow coming along. Mine bit the dust. I'm hoping your's made a bow.
Stan

[razorsharptokill]

Haven't had time to work on it really. Too damn hot too!

I do have it roughly shaped but need to get it to floor  tiller stage.

[razorsharptokill]

Ok... I just had to suck it up and work on this bow. It's not as hot as it has been.

I have it to a heavy floor tiller now and  the tips tapered down to about 1/2".

I roughed it in with a bandsaw, then went to the belt sander, then to the disk sander to even the belly out.

Now to the scraper.

[razorsharptokill]

Looks like this bow is going to be a good shooter. Osage never ceases to amaze me with its strength and flexibility.

I screwed one tip up filing the string nocks so I lost an inch off that limb. It was an inch longer before so now both limbs are the same length.

I have it pulling 40 @ 20" I'll get some pics posted tonight. Here are the pics.