Made a little mistake! PICTURES ADDED.

[Don Armstrong]

I haven't made a bow for a while but was inspired by Pat's "corner of shame bow", which is a beautiful bow. I have a nice osage stave that has the back to a nice ring but has a little prop twist. I laid a 62" bow out trying to get as much twist out as possible. It is 64" end to end.I evidently had my head somewhere is didn't belong   :rolleyes:  . After I reduced it to almost floor tiller stage, I noticed a knot about 3" from one end. I oiled the stave and heated it on a caul to get it straight. The knot is about a 1/4" and the middle part is loose. I could make a 58" bow and get the knot out but not sure if 58" will work at 28" draw and around 50 lbs. Should I cut the bow down or try to super glue the peg in the knot hole. Thanks, Don

[Osagetree]

I'd dig out the loose part and work around the  hole,,, it can be done.

[Silent Bear]

a 58 inch bow should easily be able to reach 28 inches if it has a good tiller

[Don Armstrong]

I don't know if digging the center of the knot out will work. It would be about three inches from the end of the limb and there won't be much meat there. I guess I could try to keep that part of the limbs as stiff as possible to keep stress off the knot hole. I was thinking I could shorten the limb with the knot by 2.5" and the other limb 1.5". This would give me a finished bow 58" nock to nock. I could also put some antler backing at the tips as I usually do but go down the limb a little more than usual to cover the knot hole. Don

[George Tsoukalas]

Can you show us a picture? Jawge

[Stiks-n-Strings]

If you followed the grain around the knot and left the limb wider around the knot you should be fine doing it like Osage suggested. I have one I'm working on know that has a punky knot about 1/3 the way up from the fade and when it is done it will have a hole in it.

 Stiks

[Pat B]

Pics would really help!   If the knot is loose take it out and leave the limb wide around it. If it is 3" from the end of the limb that area is probably not working anyway.   Pics would really help!!

[Don Armstrong]

Will try to post picture. I'm at work now and it will be Thursday before I can get a picture. If the knot was in the main limb, I would just leave some extra wood around it. It is only about 3" from the end of the limb which will put it close to the string groove. I was hopeing to flip the tips and still might. Don

[Pat B]

You may still be able to flip the tips. Leave the tips wide to flip them. Take it real slow, heat well and don't force anything. Even if you have to do it in two or 3 sessions. The area around knot holes is thicker than surrounding wood to handle the weight and leverage of the tree limb growing from it(the knot). If the knot is loose it is serving no purpose so it can(usually) be removed without effecting the bow.

[ranger 3]

This is about 8" from the tip.
 

[Don Armstrong]

Here are pics of the limb. What do you think?

 

 

 

[Pat B]

Another option for that knot is to remove whatever loose material from the knot and fill it with saw dust and super glue. A knot that size will have to be done in layers to insure no voids.
  Looks to me like you could clean out the knot and tiller the bow with a hole in the limb. You can leave that area a little stiff as not to over stress it.
  I would saturate the small knot at the tip with super glue and forget it. Keep as much wood around it as you can. It is in a non working area anyway.

[Don Armstrong]

Pat, that is the same knot. It looks very small on the back in the first picture but goes thru the limb at an angle. It comes out as you see in the second and third picture. Don