Cutting Hickory in the Summer

[bridog]

Hey Everyone,

I was thinking of cutting some Bitternut Hickory and splitting into staves in southern MN in the near future.

Is this a good idea to do in August or am I supposed to wait until winter for better results?

What is the ideal log diameter to target?  I was thinking 10-12"...

I no experience in cutting staves or actual selfbow building other than videos and watching build alongs.

Thanks for any insight - Bridog

[formerbutcher]

If you cut it now the bark will slip off, that's a good thing, you have the back of you'r bow right there. 10-12" tree sounds about right. Make sure you seal the back and ends after cutting. I use White Elmers glue.

Good luck !

[John Scifres]

Cutting now is fine.

10-12" is a good size for producing several staves but still being manageable.

[bridog]

Thanks guys!

Are there any other words of wisdom you can share on picking a hickory tree.

How about dry time before working the stave or should I do like they did in Hunting the Osage Bow book and reduce them right away to approximate rough dimension?  I would guess I couldn't touch the stave for finish work until this winter.

Straight bark without twist, watch for obvious knots and cat-faces, etc that I have read about for osage still apply for hickory I assume.

Thanks, Brian

[NJWoodsman]

I had a 6-8" shagbark hickory come down on Memorial Day weekend, I split it, sealed the ends, and let it sit a week. Then I peeled the bark off, it's very thick, and moist underneath. I do not seal the back. Be careful about reducing a stave too soon, I did that to one of mine and it "propellored" a bit, but also put in some natural reflex. Two months later and I just about have it floor tillered.

[John Scifres]

If you reduce it to a max thickness of 5/8" it will dry in a month or so.  I have roughed out many bows and quick dried them.  I go so far as to floor tiller.  Leave them full width so you can adjust the layout after drying.  

The thinner you get them, the less warpage and quicker dry time.  I don't bother with shellac on whitewoods taken down to floor tiller.  Warpage and drying checks are caused by uneven drying.  When you thin this much, the wood dries much more evenly.  Keep an eye on it and don't put it anywhere too dry or hot for a week or more after cutting.

[Art B]

Just curious guys, but don't you think that this year's growth ring, not being fully developed yet,  as being a problem?

I made a couple hickory bows last year that was cut about this time but I chased off several rings for more mature ones for their backs.

I've cut, split, reduced/dried and heat treated hickory in 30 days. I dried the wood without the aid of a moisture meter, by monitored tempature and humidity only. But as John mentioned, you have to get your limbs fairly closed to final dimensions. The thicker handle and fade wood will of course take longer to just air dry. ART

[walkabout]

i followed johns instructions on my summer cut hickory and havent had any trouble. the new growth will peel off easily, and the ring just under that should be just fine for the bows back. make sure you seal end grain just to be safe, including the end grain thats in the handle/riser. i had some checks develop here, even when the staves were in my basement for the first few weeks where its humid.

[bridog]

Good info.

THanks!

We'll see how this goes when I get the time to hunt my tree down.

Bridog

[walkabout]

make sure you tape or clamp the staves to a 2x4 form to keep them from twisting. i used a 2x4 with some 4" blocks under the tips for mine.

[ALW]

Art, have you had a chance to work those billets yet?  Just wondered if they were any count.

Aaron

[Art B]

Got 'em roughed out and drying Aaron. Looking real good too! Thanks my friend.  ART

[Doug A]

Does anybody have suggestions on working hickory saplings.  I can find a few of them and I don't want to take down any of my squirrel bait sources.  I figure a 3-4 inch diameter sapling should work for splitting maybe two staves.  I know that the crown on the back will be high and I will probably be working with a flatter belly.  Any Ideas?

[walkabout]

rough em out 3/4" thickness, leaving full width to layout later. theyll dry faster and be less likely to check while drying. getting a pair of staves from one may be difficult, depending on the twist of the grain.

[Doug A]

I have also thought about trying to do what I saw Stim Wilcox do last year at ETAR.  He made a "hatchet bow" with about a 3" HHB sapling.  He let the wood cure for about a year, not sure if it was with or without the bark on and proceeded to whittle out a great looking bow with just a hatchet and pocket knife in about 30-40 minutes.  The handle was the full diameter of the sapling and the limbs tapered down to about 1/2".  It felt like it pulled aroud 60# and shot an arrow with authority. I wouldn't be so arrogant as to think I could do the same, but it sure would be fun to try.  I wish I had my video camera to document that process.

[red hill]

Doug, I read an interesting method of handling green saplings in TBB I. It is on pp 95-96. Quick and easy...
Stan

[Doug A]

Thanks Stan, The "Bibles" are on my list of books to add to my library.  I have Stim's book, but I am not sure if he covers his "hatchet bows" in the book.  I'll look into that when I get home from work.

[walkabout]

i think the staves i harvested could be considered saplings, and i just worked them like a normal stave . first one is almost done, and turned out quite well for my first hickory selfbow. if anything the most important thing would be carefuly laying out where in the stave your bow is before roughing it out so the grain doesnt run off in any bad spots. aside from that keep it dry as you possibly can, especially if you are going to use heat on it or it might check. mine did slightly, but i believe this is because there is a signifigant of heartwood left in those spots.

[razorsharptokill]

I guess Hickory is second only to Osage for bows?

[walkabout]

depends on what kind of criteria you are using. there are woods with higher specific gravity, however it seems that some of these woods can be more dificult to work with than hickory. hickorys main advantage is it is tough and takes to bending while being a little more forgiving than some other woods. i think there is a general group of woods that can really be classed together as "great" bow woods, however these woods require a bit more experience to work and achieve their full potential than a clean piece of hickory. i love working hickory, however i have to say next to wanting to get my hands on a piece of osage, vine maple , juniper, and yew are right up there on the list.