Gary,
much of my failures with Boo/Ipe was from leaving the boo too thick. If you don't taper it down to 1/16 at the tips, then after tillering you don't maintain a good ratio of bellywood to backing. my last several bows, i started stopping just short of knife edgeing the boo,then cut it match the limb width taper,(now you will see that the boo appears thicker at the ends, its an illusion, its just that now you only see the center portion of the boo) and then go back taper the ends to maintain the same look on the edges from middle to tips, this will insure it is tapered.
Get the Ipe bending some first, then perry reflex the glue up of the backing.
John was absolutely right, onced you put on raw boo on the back you can't thin it. in fact be very careful about sanding the nodes and scraping the rind off.
You can however sand laminated boo. In the last bow i posted Sam Harper showed me how to glue on a trilam of processed boo, so that i could sand it. I used the third layer to take the weight back up on a bow that i had hinged and had to even it out.