The bark isn't very thick on yew. I used a draw knife to remove it but remember it isn't osage so go gingerly. You might try a rasp and scraper if the draw knife doesn't suit you. Again, go gingerly.
On the few yew bows I've made the sapwood was from 3/8" thick to about 1/2" but I think 1/4" or so would be best.
With thin ringed yew a bit of sapwood grain violation on the back is no problem. Ideally you always want a clean, continuous back ring but yew is the exception to the rule and some violations are acceptable.
You always need to follow the longitudinal grain when setting up a bow on a stave!
I have not made a yew recurve...yet!...but I always leave the tips wide(1/2" to 3/4") until I'm sure everything lines up just right. With static tips you can still tiller the bow with wide, thick tips without effecting tiller. I do the same with the handle area; wide and thick until later.
After the bow is tillered and everything is lined up you can reduce the width of the tips considerably if they are thick enough. Thick, narrow wood is physically lighter than thin, wide wood and is much stronger.
If you don't have TBBII, get it! It has a chapter on bending wood and the next chapter is on recurves. Both very informative and enlightening.