Author Topic: Single fiberglass lam  (Read 386 times)

Offline srtben

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Single fiberglass lam
« on: September 13, 2010, 12:28:00 AM »
I was just finishing the tiller on my latest bow, a R/D hickory backed maple board bow, and the hickory started to crack on the bow back. It also isn't holding the R/D laminated in to it. My question is, can add a piece fiberglass lam to the back to add strength and reduce string follow. also is it ok just to put glass on the back, or do I have to put glass on the belly also? any help would be greatly appreciated. Help save my bow!    :pray:
Ben Tendick

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Offline JamesV

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Re: Single fiberglass lam
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2010, 04:16:00 AM »
I have built dozen's of hickory and IPE wood bows with glass backing. They are easy to build and shoot great.
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Online Pat B

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Re: Single fiberglass lam
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2010, 11:23:00 AM »
Which direction does the cracks go on the hickory? If with the grain it shouldn't effect the shooting or durability of the bow. If across the bow I don't believe a glass back will help much. Remove the hickory backing first.
  Was your backing completely dry(cured)? Is the humidity in your area high and if so did you dry the backing strip first before backing the bow? I have made lots of hickory backed bows and all held the reflex I added with a little loss after shooting in but I allowed for that when making the bow.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
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Offline srtben

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Re: Single fiberglass lam
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2010, 02:45:00 PM »
I thought it was cured. I dont have  moisture meter
to know the moisture content though. I do have hot box now so i could make sure in there. the crack is with the grain, but is peeling up a bit. so it would need glued down somehow, I suppose a fabric backing would work. but I wasn't sure if that would fix the straightening issue.
Ben Tendick

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Online Pat B

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Re: Single fiberglass lam
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2010, 03:32:00 PM »
Be careful that the glass backing doesn't overpower the maple belly. Ipe is very strong in compression and can handle a tension strong backing like glass way better than a maple belly.
  What glue did you use? If it was TiteBond you can separate the backing and belly with heat. TB glues will release at 150deg(F). Then you can re-glue another backing on. I guess you can add the glass over the hickory backing if you want. I prefer not to use glass in bows. Never saw a need for it.
  When you added the R/D to your bow did you add more than you wanted in the end result?  Any wood bow will loose some of added R/D or reflex when it comes off the form and as it is shot in. By adding a bit more R/D (or reflex) at glue up you should come out closer to your goal...and well cured wood is critical also.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
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