Bingham's 64" r/d build (Finished Pics Pg. 3)

[K30bowfisher]

My first bow build is coming along nicely. Thanks to fellow board members, especially Greg.

I took it out of the oven last night and waited til it cooled to break down the forms. That wait seemed very long.

Here it is headed into the oven.
   

Here it is this morning with the epoxy cleaned off.
 

here is my riser after sanding closer to width. I left the whole bow about 1/8" big initially to hopefully be able to recover from any mistakes.
   

Thanks again Greg for helping me fix this. The fit looks pretty good.

Here is the profile after rough shaping the limbs.
   

I'm debating cutting string grooves at 66" first to check draw weight, I don't want this bow to be too heavy to shoot. I'm looking to hit 55#'s.

Thanks for looking.

[kennym]

Lookin good. Good idea on cuttin long first. I do that on new forms.

[GREG IN MALAD]

The riser fit very nice, and those fadeouts look great.
 I wouldn't worry about it being too heavy, with that limb design you can go very narrow and still be stable. On the other hand, I left my first bows long, but I always ended up cutting them down to the intended length later.

Kenny, I glued tip overlays on the 60" longbow today, so far it looks good.

[hova]

i love it

[Igor]

looks great

thanks for sharing

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Glenn

[bjansen]

Great looking bow!...I forgot how much I like that bingham profile.  Great work on those fades too!

[K30bowfisher]

What do I do about a tillering string? Do I need a longer string, or can I just string it up with the correct string for the length?

[GREG IN MALAD]

Use the normal string, you don't need a longer string with a glass bow. I leave my bows strung for about 30 minutes before pulling them to full draw, don't know if this is necessary but it gives me peace of mind.

[jess stuart]

Looks real good, that bow does have a nice profile should shoot good.

[Swissbow]

Very nice job. I love those mild d/r-profiles, that gives such sweet looking bows.

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Andy

[K30bowfisher]

Got a little time in tonight after the kids went to bed.

Decided to go with Greg's advice and cut nocks in at 64", since I already had a string.

Sanded down the profile to real close to finish dimensions. I'm really liking the shape.
 

Got it strung up!!
 

Closer view of my nock, I think I will work on these a little more after overlays go on.
 

Limbs are pretty dang straight, I hope I don't mess it up when I finish sand it.
 

the draw weight feels a little heavy right now, I have no scale so just guessing it is over 60lbs. Hopefully it will finish up closer to my target of 55lbs.

Brace height is 8" to the back of the bow. Both limbs measure right at 7-1/4" from string to fadeouts.

Which one should I pick to weaken a little? Maybe finer
sanding of the profile will make it more obvious?

Thanks for all the comments and assistance, this board is fantastic.

[Trux Turning]

That's looking good. With both limbs the same you can chose either one for the top. These long bows are easier to keep the limbs straight on so don't worry about messing that up. I'd get it on a scale to see where you are- this will tell you how aggressive you need to round over the limbs or if you need to narrow and/or trap the limbs to hit your target weight.

[fish n chicks]

I can't get over how I like everything about that bow. Profile and materials are spot on. Good luck and we're looking forward to your shooter.

[GREG IN MALAD]

You can loose 5# rounding the edges and finish sanding, don't worry about it being too heavy. That is a nice profile for shooting heavy arrows. Don't forget to round off the edges before you draw it.

[K30bowfisher]

I got my tip overlays done: White Phenolic, Bo Tuff, & Zebra
 

I also took it in to a local shop with a draw weight scale. I am shooting for 55 lbs at my 30" draw length. My bow pulled 58 lbs at 30". Looks like I'll be pretty close to what I wanted as I finish this up.

[GREG IN MALAD]

Hey, thats looking very good. Are you sure this is your first bow? What are you going to use for a finish? And a name, you will need a name for it.

[DCM]

Nice dawg!  Thanks for posting.

[K30bowfisher]

Thanks for all the comments, it helps to have the Pro's tell you some of their tricks and fix your screw ups for you. I'm going to start cuting in the sight window and grip tonight.

[K30bowfisher]

I was thinking I would use Tru-oil to finish this bow. It seemed to me to be the easiest for me to do with the equipment I have at home and I've used it before.

Does anyone have a better suggestion for an easy, do it with limited equipment, finish that looks nice and is durable?

[GREG IN MALAD]

Tru-oil works fine. You can also brush-on epoxy, then wet sand and polish. For a spray can finish, Minwax spar urethane works well, and if you read the thread about krylon krystal, it looks good.