How much set is acceptable?

[Greenknight916]

My last straight-limbed, bamboo backed hickory longbow took about 1 1/2" of set. I haven't shot it yet and am wondering what issues, if any this will cause. Is it possible to tiller a bow that starts perfectly straight and have the limbs remain set-free?

[formerbutcher]

"set happens" I can live with a couple of inches of set. Don't let it get you down !

[4est trekker]

Hickory is weak in compression, especially when paired with the tension-strong bamboo backing.  1 1/2" isn't bad for that pairing.  Keep it dry and you may get away with 2" after shooting in.

It is darn near impossible to not induce any set on a wooden bow.  Even glass bows will take just a touch.  To get a straight profile when unstrung, you must induce reflex.  Hope this helps!

[Mark Smeltzer]

If I'm not mistaken, even when you induce say...3" of reflex and you end up with 1" of reflex after shooting the bow in, that is still considered "set"(compression damage to the belly). That being said, I almost always reflex the bow enough in the outer 1/3 of the limbs to have the tips about 1" out in front of the bow back, after shot in. For me this is the fastest design with little to no hand shock. Long story short.....
I have never had an all wood bow that started straight, end up with the same unstrung profile.

Mark

[Mark Smeltzer]

One other thing, in an all wood bow or a wood lam bow I have never finished a bow with out shooting it, lots.
I always shoot it in as I build it (short draw).  The last couple of inches I take pictures while I draw to get the tiller perfect. I don't think the tree puts the same pressures on the bow as the shooter does. Especially if they shoot three under.
My two cents.

Mark

[Greenknight916]

Thanks for the help. I thought maybe it was my novice tillering job. I'm going to switch to epe for the belly cores from this point on i think.

[Mark Smeltzer]

I should proof read better.  What I meant to say is if the shooter is a three under shooter.
Ipe is a great belly wood but some compression in the belly wood is just as common as tension stress is in a backing,no matter what the wood. The trick is to find the right ratio, the variables include wood choices, design choices, ie. length vs. width and and the quality of the wood chosen and draw length.
The TBB vol 1 and 2 have good info.
again, just my 2 cents.
Mark

[Greenknight916]

I exercised the limbs after every wood removal but will probably shoot the bow in as you suggested on the next attempt. I'm getting those 2 volumes for Christmas hopefully. Thanks for the tips!

[Mark Smeltzer]

During tillering I un string the bow often just to examine and measure the set. The unstrung profile can tell you lots about moisture, stress and tillering.

Mark

[Loren Holland]

if you only got 1 1/2 inches, you did well.

Mark was right on the money in all his comments...and yes, switching to ipe, does not mean you won't see anymore set.  i love ipe and boo, and i will tell you that if you overtress a fade and don't tiller slowly it will show set as much as any other wood.  in fact because its so strong, you tend to stress it too much and work too quickly.

bottom line is that good tillering will give you the least set, but any all wood bow is still going to have some

[Greenknight916]

Good to know I didn't mess it up   ) I thought about trying to reflex it a few inches so that it'd be straight when unstrung but don't want to take a chance on having it delaminate from reheating it.

[Mark Smeltzer]

Yea, I would not try to add reflex after a glue up. You will more than likely delaminate the bow.
Good luck let us know how it turns out.
We like pictures.
Mark